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Chassis Battery Charger
I was told about Prevost Community in December 2011 by Bob Glines when I was looking for help in knowing whatever I needed to know about changing chassis batteries. You all have been a big help in many areas since then.
I have come full circle and I may be changing those batteries again. I replaced the 4 group 31 batteries then with private label “seconds.” An acquaintance owns the battery company and I happened to be in his area when I needed batteries. He often has batteries he can not sell as new because they have set on the shelf too long or they have been sold and returned. He tests them and sells them at a discounted price. The discount on mine was 100% so I am not too disappointed that they are showing weakness at 2 years and 9 months.
They have only shown that weakness twice and both times I had not started the bus in atleast a week and my 12v and 24v disconnects were not in the off position for at least part of that time.
The second time (last week) the battery charger acted a little hesitant but I did get enough charge to crank. I checked the charger this week and it is working off and on or not at all. It has been mounted on top of the batteries next to the engine for nearly 20 years so I am surprised it has lasted this long. That is assuming it is original.
With the cover.
Without the cover.
This charger is a plug in model and I manually put the leads on the two main post down on the side below the disconects.
I have four questions.
1. Should I replace it with a similar model?
2. If so, where’s the best place to order and have it shipped to me?
3. Should I consider a different type of charger? I imagine there have been some advances in technology in 20 years. Please assume I know nothing about chargers and you will be close to correct.
4. IF a different type charger is recommended should I consider hard wiring the charging leads so all I need to do is plug it in or turn on a breaker? Bonus Question: IF I do that, where do I tie in specifically?
Thanks for your help. Changing the batteries is in the near future but I would like to resolve the charger issue now before I am stuck high and dry.
Davy
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18 Replies
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Davy,
I would recommend a different path of travel.
First, let me say on my first coach my batteries would last about 2 weeks and would go dead. As a newbie I kept an eye on them and recharged them as necessary. But eventually I realized something was wrong, not with the batteries, but with the coach.
As it turned out a previous owner got creative and wired the heater in the water separator to the batteries with no fuse, no switch, and on all the time regardless of whether the master switches were on or off. As soon as I disconnected that small heater from the batteries I never had to use the charger on my batteries until they were dying of old age.
I could let the coach sit for months and as soon as I hit the key it would spin and start.
The same is true for my present coach, and the one before that one. So my point is before you start even thinking about battery chargers first find out why your chassis batteries are dying so soon. At five years they should still be providing good service, not dying at three.
But assuming you have no phantom loads which it sounds like you have, then consider a smart charger. Look for one that is a three stage charger that has bulk, absorbtion and float and that its voltages when charging are appropriate for the battery type. Then never use it because you have previously solved the problem that is killing your batteries.
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Davy,
Throw that think in the dumpster. Get yourself a Guest/Marinco Charger or Battery Tender. The Guest/Marinco is model 2611 and runs about 129 bucks. The Battery Tender I’m currently using is about 75 bucks. I hard wired the leads and if I’m going to set for a month or two, I occasionaly hook it up to top off the batteries. I’m always screwing around with stuff, so the ignition is on and off during storage while I’m working on things.
I do agree with Jon, if I wasn’t doing things to use battery power, the chassis batteries would likely last a couple months with no problem.
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I should have mentioned what Tom said just for clarification. The battery charger for the chassis on my coach is used when I am doing things as Tom suggests and I am drawing power from the batteries. Any project that has me messing with the lights or leaving the key on is a battery drain and my charger is used as Tom suggests to top the batteries back off. But if I don’t have any reason to use chassis power I know I can go at least three months without needing a charge.
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Thanks, Jon for the reminder on phantom loads. Those are valid points. Although I am not 100% certain that I have NO phantom loads I am certain of one thing. There has been a definite change. Whereas I did not have to worry about the batteries losing any power for over 2 1/2 years of their life, I do now. I am usually running every week. Occasionally I will be in one place for two weeks. Once in a great while I will be away from the bus for four weeks. The batteries have always been fine for those durations without cranking until now. One week without running and without turning off the disconnect switches and the voltage will begin to slip below acceptable levels.
I also understand that they should last 5 years but I have made it 2 years and 9 months on batteries that cost me nothing and that I knew would probably have a shorter life. $400-600 for 5 years vs 2 years and 9 months for free. I am OK with that since I work for free.
I am in London, Kentucky this week and the local NAPA quoted me $98 each for batteries with 1140 cranking amps and 950 cold. I just do not know if I have time to change them this week.
Thanks for the specific recommendation on a charger, Tom. I will start looking. How do I wire the leads direct?
Thanks again, guys.
Davy
This is for a 2611A. That the same thing?
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Never rule out one bad battery drawing down the set.
If your batteries have gone extended periods without needing to be charged and all of a sudden they go flat in a relatively short period of time the reason could be as simple as one of the set has gone bad.
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I agree. If I find that one is bad and the other are OK shouldn’t I replace all four anyway? I am not itching to spend money but I do want to do it correctly.
Davy
This is a picture of the 2611A I found on Amazon. It looks like two separate sets of leads.
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FWIW, I have the Battery Tender that Tom posted a picture of. It works great. My original batteries were 5 years old, so I replaced them when I was at Jeff’s place a few weeks ago. I have used their products on my boats and motorcycles without any issues. I would grab one to replace that old manual clunker you have.
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Davy,
You combine the leads for 24 volt, instructions come with the charger.
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Davey if you need a battery tender I have new one in box you are welcome to it my wife could mail it to you
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You combine the leads for 24 volt, instructions come with the charger.
Where do I hook the leads too if I go that route? I have not seen a way to get behind the main 24 volt posts.
Thanks for the offer Peter. I think I want to install something permanently but if I need it I will let you know. You are very kind.
If I can do it tomorrow I would like to take all the leads off and check the individual batteries.
Davy
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I’ve gone direct to the batteries in the past Davy, but this time, I tied into the jump lugs for ground and 24v.
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OK, I had a few minutes this morning so I unhooked the batteries and pulled them out.
I arrived here Saturday and no charge on them since then.
All the batteries were over 12 volts resting except the second battery in. It was at 11.7.
All the leads look to be in good shape except for the cable coming from the 24v side of the equalizer. It is attched to the positive side of battery number 1.
(As an aside, the diagram shows it connected to the positive of battery number 4 and I remember this discrepancy last time. That is the only variation from the diagram. I will put it on 4 when I hook back up.)
When I removed it from the battery and started to clean it, the connector broke in two on the battery side. I know what the equalizer does but not how it does it. Could a bad connection there, if the connection was bad before I broke it, cause the batteries not to charge correctly? I do not think so but like I said I am ignorant of how it works.
I am going to run the batteries to NAPA and also buy a new cable. Any suggestions on what to do? You think I have one battery bad?
With the batteries out I can see how I can tie a charger into the 24v charging posts. I do not know if I can pull everything together to get it done while I have the batteries out but I would like too. I have to roll Saturday morning and I have a tent revival in progress right now.
Davy
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It is probable the problem was the single battery that tested low. If the connection to the equalizer was bad two batteries would be low voltage.
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I took all four batteries to NAPA and two tested completely bad. The other two tested good although he said one of them was only good and the other was very good. NAPA recommended buying just two.
The decision I need to make is do I replace all four or just two? If I replace only two am I risking having to take everything apart again in the next 2 years and then have two used ones and two new ones again? Probably. If I bite the bullet now and by four I am starting fresh and “should” be OK for 4-5 years. Pay now or pay later. Any opinions?
The $98 batteries they stock have 1140 cranking amps and 950 cold. That is 50 less cold cranking amps than the current batteries but the same cranking amps.
I ordered a 24v “smart” charger that I will wire in. I will have to finagle a way to mount it. It should be here Thursday. I have to install it before the batteries so I will try to button everything up Friday morning. I also need to clean the tray area. That gives me a couple of days to decide what to do as far as batteries. I value your opinions.Davy
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When batteries are used in a set never ever just replace the bad one(s). Batteries always need to be replaced as a set and if at all possible the entire set should have the same date code.
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