-
build on budget
-
easy way get a carpet like material refered to as Ozite, Contact cement and do 1/2 at a time. I used a 2 by 4 to suspend it down the middle 40ft and did 1/2 at a time. The old style cement in red lable can works several times better on long run than new non odor type in green can. You can get high if not well ventilated!! Another one I did with a center island I ran 30 inch wide by 8ft vinyl mirror stock down middle and used marine vinyl down sides. The mirror vinyl holds up good as long as you follow cleaning indtructions and is lite weight. The other way I have done is run the vinyl all the way. I used the 30 inch middle then stepped down 1 inch on side panels the drop I created down middle I recessed 1 inch creating a slight notch for stripp led lighting. I also have a button machine that I cover buttons with with matching vinyl. Sort of neat the center you fasten on with a screw then snap cover on– something like snap on blue jeans. Really good where you want a removeable panel. I run air stapler around edges and cover with whelting. Many ways to do this. The pro conversion I took apart had same process. Plan ahead and you can hide almost all of the edges by fastening pannels from rear. Bob
-
I added black out because there are times you may wish to totally darken a portion of a window or black out. Simple buy cheap spray can of black applied to inside will give a smooth apearance from outside. The tint works but at several times the cost. Window shades: I have tried 3 myself. 1st was pleated shades made of cloth(Roman Like) that operate just like the old metal slat ones. The next Was a full roman shade that the wife made in 2 window width. Easy to string and when linned can really make a big differance on thermal transferr. The same application was used on front windshield 2 seperate shades. The day night shades can be purchased at the rv surplus places or I found them at Lowes for about 20$ a window. You have 3 choices either open–closed with no view–or opaque with distorted semi private view. I have used the old alum slat venitian shades= they rattle and swing while in motion. Will cover frameing in window valances and space between shades. Sorry about choppy aoearance of this post as the paragraph method I tried didn’t work. Bob
-
from::: prevost car.com…You will need the last letter in your serial number plus last 4 didgets (W-6553) that says my shell was built in 98 and unit 6553. P-1082 is the general manual of how prevost built the XL until 2000. Mine is a XLE the E stands for entertainer. If you don;t have anything but XL info then use the mth classification if your shell went to a converter. There are tech pub on air and electrical that are crutial. The electrical part tells you what the wire color means and you will find them tatoo on the wire its self. Also tells what position the breakers are in. I downloaded to my computer but also made a hard copy. The P-1082 was available from Prevost for a little over $100. No charge to down load. I have notes hand written all over mine so I can remember and changes I made or found out converter made. When you have 100’s of wires running every where you need help! I also have bought the 60 serries manual–avail on internet that has all the configureations of the 60 serries by engine number. Have the manuals on gen set and every component I can get them for—TO the guys that says I won’t work on my coach anyway!! The guy doing it will be glad you got them!!! I have heard of several that have found original packet of info tucked under couch or some other remote area in their converted coach. Bob
-
You will find when you get wiring diagram from Prevost there will be many extra wires already run from box to box. There are functions not used on your coach that = unused circuits. Also will be many extra breakers and relays vacant. Nice thing about this if a active breaker or relay fails on road you can pull/exchange one of these and continue on your way or a mechanic with this knowledge/wiring diagram can. The extra wires can be wsed for new circuits or to replace a bad wire. Bob
-
pic
-
pic
-
have plates in hand and can be used for our June 10-12th tractor show weekend. Still lots of trim work to do, We use cherry off our property sawed on our sawmill with 1905 Huber steam engine. Our enjoyment is in the build then use. Bob PS have a few BO Boos from work.
-
Very nice job Bob , looks great and you really enjoy the journey of building it , people could really learn a lot from you .
-
Lost good friend Peter. Sucks! back to bus– Have finished milling and finishing with Linseed oil the wild cherry that was cut on our place and prepared on our sawmill the milled into trim to finish the interior. I can pick apart the craftsmanship . Learned allot about making trim. GPS speedo installed. Cracked side window replaced. Got new/used rear bumper. Grandkids got to use toilet for first time. Road tested. Need to adjust air pressure on trans. Really need to address paint this year. Installed 850mhz booster for cell and wifi. Never finished till we are——– just a home builders sickness. Bob
-
Yeah miss ole Peter’s posts for sure. Don’t think I could ever build out a bus. Glad I found mine in pristine condition at very little cost. already with evrything know to man. I am gonna try and put a wood floor of some sort down and remove carpet and tile. Hope it don’t look like hammered chit. Keep us posted on the progress. Looking good Bob.
-
Bob,
Looking good , Thanks for sharing.Safe travels,
Rocky
Log in to reply.