[Archived]

Let’s start with plumb tanks–water and sewer. After experience the last bay is best. Present set up on mine is 2ea 100 gal poly tanks. One for fresh water and one for gray/black. Cost 90$ each from Tuff-jon.com. One reason is they are 5 miles away. Limited by size because they build certain sizes determined by market. Most builders will locate fittings where you want them. Don’t forget winter drain for fresh tank. Do a search for poly tanks in your area and you just might be surprised.I use pex pipe and fittings(make sure ends of cuts are square)=pex takes more abuse and easy to change plus you can color code for hot/cold.Anchor tanks firmly in place. Plan ahead for entrance to bus thru floor and try to keep it to one side so you can put behind cabinets. Try to keep flow slight up hill so it will drain when you need.

[Richard]

First you must decide your max load. There is no reason spending 1/2 of your value(of bus) on a gen set. That said it isn’t unusal for a diesel gen to go 10,000hrs. You can get 30 amps at most camp sites. 50 amp is common now. With power saving hvac , induction cook tops ,led lighting you van get by on 7.5 kw running at 50%. Amps X volts=watts . A 30 amp campsite power X 120 volts=3600 watts. Most 50 amp sites I run in to are 120 volt 2 legs X 25 amps each=6000 watts. There are some with 2 each 50 amp legs. My choice was a 7.5kw 220 (2ea 120V legs) It had 34 hrs on it and is lp. 1500$..Some inconvience with lp. Depends on your time value=end result. The lp is more expensive to run on the other hand is much cleaner.Would prob take 15 yrs to make up differance of frequent running. This is ment to give you choices. Bob
PS see forum on generator useage—You will surprised on how many hrs the average bus owner puts on them.

[Tim]

I decided since I would either be at a RV resort/campground (with full hookup) to go smaller on fresh water and gray/black water holding tanks in the 3rd bay. At best, I may do a couple days dry camping. I used 2 food grade 55 gal. plastic barrels at $5 each. Just cut holes and install fittings. Made cradles for barrels to slide in or out for extra cleaning. Works really well!

[Chas]

Over the road air is great! again if it’s not working can cost you Thousands to fix plus maintain. Easy roof tops with heat strips=this is basic plug and play.Options mini-split inverter type. More thinking.

,but pull low amps.3 roof tops=40 to 46 amps. I use 3 mini-split @ 6 amps each=18amps total can be run off generator or inverter. The splits solve heat prob down into single digits–Mine do. 3 splits I paid 1,500 forall three.or the last roof tops I got were 750ea or $2250.for the three. Bob

[Archived]

A prevost has formed foam insulation behind Outside skin. One thing to note is the tubing/structal in side and roof are hollow. Acts just like a toaster or freezer by transferring outside temps. I have shot ribs in hot summer sun at above 140F . Inside bus was 70’s and outside about same. I added a 1 inch foam board over complete interior use foam in a can as a joint sealer. Use plywood big head screws to fasten to inside ribs. Eleminated hot /cold spots. Don’t forget floors from bottom; Where ever you can. The isulation behind the front sheet metal in mine was only fiberglass.I added as much foam as I could. Don’t forget under entrance steps. The right headlight asembly is just in front entrance stair well foward wall.There is a space there that allows for lines and headlight access to right assembly. The lefr is below floor line. Has a couple holes that I sealed. Just think of air pressure at 60mph. Just think keep hot or cold out and it equals oppisite result for inside. Bob

[Per]

Bob wrote: “The right headlight asembly is just in front entrance steer well. Has a couple holes that I sealed. Just think of air pressure at 60mph. ”

Is it possible that Prevost wasn’t too interesed in sealing this area up because there wouldn’t be a passenger sitting right in front of right front headlight on a seated coach?

[Per]

steer—should be stair. It is directly next to where the heat(coolant ) and freon lines come thru. I sealed around them also. Good catch! I’ll be 70 in couple months so Thought I had better record some experiences before they are gone. Bob

[Gerard]

If you end up with a seated coach you will prob want to cover some of the windows. I use 18 ga cold roll steel sheet.. Why cold roll? It seems to hold paint better and doesn’t deform as much as alum in sun/cold. You can tack weld it from inside also. Insulate insulate insulate. Side windows let heat and cold thru. So it’s a trade off as to how many or size. Front windshield is a big heat transferr point. One thing I do is place mirror tint above line of sight for driver about 3 inches. Same on both door and driver side windows. You can see thru it but it cuts down sun glare and heat transfer. Have checked on legality and comment was at 3 inches above normal driving view. I use inside side windows also but cover complete window. Try a experiment and see heat differance and visibility. Again these methods are my choices all I do is share. If you get a older xl with top windows. Cheap way use black spray paint on inside(will look like smooth tint outside) or make fiberglass insert to replace glass. Top glass is twice the cost of a windshield. Bob

[Jerry]

This is a can of worms subject.. Basic sequence and suggestions only provided here!!! We are assuming that you are hooked up to pole or generator and maybe a power inverter. No matter what when it leaves clean source there is electrical flow to be considered. I like stranded wire/or marine grade wire(copper)ever splice = loss of available power so I run wires from source to point of use with no splices. Also use conduit with extra pairs pulled in for future expansion. Keep your dc and ac seperate conduit. For you factory built guys–Not all are created equal!! I have found some neutral ground bonding situations( could lead to you being ground between coach and earth…) If you ever get a tingle when touching your coach don’t take it lightly!!! have some one check it out!!! also things like lamp cord used to run circuits on one I just took apart to rebuild—A few years back a customer had a 120 V feed back to his ddec=fried–no engine= cause was a wire to wire contact when line power AC and Dc were run in same conduit. If I hadn’t checked voltage with shore power plagged in it would have fried anothe ddec IV as soon as it was. Don’t like bakeolite(sp) battery cable connectors .Had one break going to ground(frame)= fire. Don’t know why converter didn’t use one piece cable rather than split into 2 (Y) To much to consider. Be careful!! The battery bank is close to 4,000 amps at 12 V dc. Don’t take short cuts here.. Side note on most coaches there is 2 empty pvc runs from rear of spare tire compartment to outside of rear bay above axle. plan plan over build over build—stay alive.. bob

[Rodney]

I was going to avoid the last post because of misconception. It is probably one of the most critical things to do correct the first time around. To the guys with a 2nd hand factory conversion. You don’t really know what has been modified by some good intention person. Your job is just to be aware===If it doesn’t seem to work properly get help. To the guys doing yourself wether from scratch or modifying some one else project .Be dillagent and make record of your work. I myself have made many mistakes and have learned from them. Will go on to differant topic. Bob

[Archived]

I have done 3 ways. Buy box store oak cabinets and modify to coach configuration=Basically your buying doors and cabinet fronts as you will need to cut a radius on XL at top to get them to sit plumb or space out from bottom to wall. 2nd build your own frames and just buy doors. The latest I used was buy a high end cabinet display at Lowes. 20grand worth of cabinets for 1700$$ They take bids on these displays when they are changing out.. This included grante cabinet tops and double kit sink. Had more than I could possibly use. Tops on first 2 were formica on first then tile on 2nd. The high end included self closing draws and doors. I have made some sharp turn and they have held shut, The first 2 I used a wood wedge on bottom of drawer located just behind cross brace where you could just lift slightly and open drawer. Sort of the keep it simple method. KISS keep it simple stupid. I belong in this classification! Bob

[Rodney]

Hello Bob – This is great information for a guy on a budget which I am. Did you do close/skin your side windows yourself. If so, can you send me some instruction or direction on the best way to do them.

Thanks

Jake

[Archived]

I used cold roll steel sheet. 5Ft by 10 ft sheets. I did my self. welded from inside with my wire welder. Just need 1 1/2 weld about ever 6 inches .Start at top of curve and pull/push in fastening as you go. The converters use Alum sheet. I like the no-wave with the steel better. If you pre heat alum and rivet while warm it is less likely to show waves. Used Ge silicon between unlike metals to aid against a reaction. 3/16th stainless steel rivets work good on Alum or steel. I use 1/4 inch long. Best way to remove existing rivets is air chisle. Then 3/16 punch to drive body in(rivets with head off). 3/16 titanium bits last longest. I buy by package a tool supply store cheaper that buying at Lowes etc. 1/2 as much$$ and better quality. Bob

[Peter]

Thank you – did you have to undo the top drip rail along the roof line to put the metal sheets under it ?

[Archived]

I didn’t want to disturb it so just tucked under tight and ran a bead of silicon caulk under for extra security/seal. I have a sheet metal cutting tool for air hammer that works good Also have a air shear. Have close to 20 yr install with no leaks. Bob