[Davy]

Loosen the ones in the circle. 1/4 inch of travel will release the groove in the cylinder and let it unscrew. Once the Cylinder is out you can take those completely out to remove the box.

I’m not sure which flat head screws you took off.

You can remove that plate in the photo to give better access to the screws and maybe a better view. Maybe those are the flat head screws you are talking about

[al]

Thank you, Joe. Thank you for the clarification.

Yes, the flat head screws that hold the strike plate to the door and box are the ones I was talking about.

Davy

[Archived]

I finally got it. Thanks to Joe and all the others that helped.

I loosened each of the two small Philip head screws 10 1/4 turns each.

Then I was able to remove the lock cylinder. I counted the turns as instructed and mine was out after five turns.

I took it to a locksmith about 20 minutes from here in Centerville, Ohio. After looking it over, she surmised it had about 20 years of gunk in it. (Actually 26 years and nearly 400,000 miles of gunk)

She cleaned it, re-keyed it to match the key for the lock on my other door and made five keys in about 40 minutes. She charged me $12 for the lock work and I about passed out. I gave her extra.

(Please remember that the largest locksmith in our area asked for pictures of everything. Once he had time to study the pictures and part numbers I provided, he said it could not be re-keyed and it would be $600 for parts and labor. I knew he did not have a clue and lost his number.)

I came home, installed the cylinder (I am so glad you told me to count the turns) and put it all back together.

This piece of angle goes between the inside part of the lock and the door as a spacer.

This is what it looks like from the inside.

When I took it apart, it had pipe dope or something around it. Maybe to protect against a leak from the outside?

Should I duplicate or leave as is?

Thanks again.

Davy

[Archived]

Glad you got it fixed.