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A Door Lock Question
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Davy,
Thats the correct cylinder but i see it is out of stock. Before you buy one take it to a lock smith and have it checked and maybe re-keyed. if the key or pins have worn they can better match it with new pins assuming the key is the same for both doors and you want to use the same key. you would have to do that to a new cylinder anyways.
Behind the box is a jam plate. an angle bracket made from sheet metal and held in with a single screw, which is near the top of the box and behind it. Remove the plate and the box can be flexed towards the outside of the door so you can grip the cylinder and unscrew it. you may want to count turns so you know how set the right distance when reinstalling.
Remove the kick plate from the door edge and you can better see 2 long screws which thread into nuts in the box. remove those and you can disconnect the linkages.
i’ll be around my barn this afternoon EST if you have questions give me a call 803-761-2882.
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Thank you, Joe. I appreciate your help. I will take a closer look with the information you have given me. Is there a thread with pictures of any of this? I am not sure that my skill set matches this task.
I may not get to this until Monday.
Davy
Edit: Let me add this. The bolt lock turns perfectly in both directions without hesitation when turning the thumb knob on the inside. The only problem is trying to turn it with the key. I need to get this cylinder to the locksmith.
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Like I said, today is busy, but I did look things over for a few minutes with Joe’s description in mind. Then I put the key in and tried it again. By pulling the key out just a smidgen, I can lock it and unlock it pretty consistently. Ugh!
Does that tell me anything about the cause of the problem?
Davy
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I’m starting to experience what has going on Davy on.
The locksmith’s comment about the lock internals wearing the key, makes sense to me.
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About a year ago we did as Joe suggested and took the lock cylinder out and brought it to a locksmith. He put new pins in, and 45 minutes later we back in business. The cost was less than $20. The locksmith was impressed at the quality of the lock and said ” I don’t see them everyday”.
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I was in the locksmith business in a past life, pulling the key out compensates for worn key or bad duplicate. Any locksmith could correct with new tumblers in the cylinder.
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Thank you all. I talked to Joe this afternoon and he gave me great insight.
The first mobile locksmith, while on the phone, completely rejected rekeying the cylinder. I called a highly recommended locksmith in the Dayton area that is confident they can do it.
I will see if I can get the cylinder removed and give you a report.
Davy
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Mine was getting hard, not hard to turn but had to wiggle it to turn, felt like it was catching on something. I also replaced the outside door handle. So I removed the deadbolt out and took it to a lock smith and 18 bucks he rebuilt it. Put it back together and it still had a small catch in it. I figured out to adjust between door handle and deadbolt and it worked like new. Had to play with it a little you can see on one photo slots longated to adjust
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What Exactly did you adjust, Art?
Davy
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Ok. Joe told me I could do this and I told him that he was underestimating my stupidity. Boy did I ever prove him wrong today.
Going by his accurate instructions I was able to loosen everything and push the cylinder toward the outside.
At that point, the cylinder was supposed to screw out, but I could not get it to budge. Did I miss something or several somethings?
Thank you,
Davy
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Nope, put some pliers on it and turn it.
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Thank you, Joe.
Earlier in the thread someone said there was something that keeps the cylinder from turning from the outside so that a thief can not remove the cylinder with the door closed? I will go back and read again after I type this.
Edit: Here it is?
The interior of door has flanges that are bent 90 degrees to prevent the rotation of the cylinder. Without them a person could screw the cylinder out of door from outside. Also insures the cylinder stays in alignment to operate the lock mechanism.What is it? I can see nothing holding it. Mine had this caulking or pipe dope that was easily removed.
I cranked down on the cylinder pretty good with Channellocks once I had the cylinder pushed to the outside. I only tried once before I posted last night. I was afraid I would damage something. I will try again.
Davy
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You can see the slots with Philip screws just changed the length, Also before I changed My outside door handle I heard all the stories about getting locked IN or OUT of bus I installed a pull cord you can see in pictures, I can access through outside docking light, remove 2 screws and cord is behind light, the dead bolt has to be unlocked to pull cord but the problem is the door handle breaking I used it on new handle also just in case. Also I made a access cover on the inside, remove some screws and door latch is rite there if handle breaks.
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Davy,
That is the part you removed in order to press the cylinder out to get the photo you sent.
Ah – I forgot to mention, the screws in the door edge that go thru the nuts turned on edge in the “box” also engage the groove of the cylinder to keep it from being turned from the outside. To prevent a crook from being able to remove the cylinder.
So remove the kick plate and loosen those screws, don’t take them out until the cylinder is removed.
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Thank you
Ah – I forgot to mention, the screws in the door edge that go thru the nuts turned on edge in the “box” also engage the groove of the cylinder to keep it from being turned from the outside. To prevent a crook from being able to remove the cylinder.
So remove the kick plate and loosen those screws, don’t take them out until the cylinder is removed.
For my clarification, Joe, look at this picture, please.
I removed the flathead screws completely. They were held in place with a nut inside. There are two small phillip screw behind the two holes that are circled in red. Are those small screws the ones that hold the cylinder in place?
You said to loosen, but not remove. How far should I expect to loosen them before the cylinder is removable?
Or have I completely misinterpreted?
Davy
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