[Jerry]

Liam, There are two questions you need to answer before considering LiFePo4.

First, is your front axle as loaded with your stuff over weight? With batteries and a generator up there it will be hard to keep it from overloading the axle.

Then next question is how long do you intend to keep the coach and is the cost of switching to Li batteries justified based on the answer.

As to side to side balance you can answer that by weighing all 6 wheel positions independently. Some scales are laid out so you can drive with one set of wheels off the scale. The answer will be in the weights. Nobody else can answer that because it is rare when there are two identical coaches loaded the same.

[Jerry]

I spent quite a bit of time this weekend and could find nothing in print, or otherwise that says it is ok to run over 2100 RPM on a series 60. If someone has something in print from DD that says 2250 for no load (which would mean no Jake usage since that places a load on the engine), or 2500 RPM as the never, never exceed, lets see it.

Otherwise, I call out those claims as bullshit. If Detroit Diesel says it, in writing, then it would not be bullshit.

[Jerry]

I do not wish to contradict what other are saying and admittedly my conversion was done by another company, but there are some things about your post that need clarifying.

As delivered by the converter, front TV lifts should not let the TV come down if the ignition key is on…unless modified by somebody later. Let’s call it an ignition interconnect.

As delivered by the converter, front TV’s should not operate (turn on) if the ignition key is on…unless modified by somebody later. Another part of the ignition interconnect.

I really doubt the the TV lift is powered by 120 VAC. It is likely powered by a low voltage (12VDC or 24VDC) source.

When you said that the TV will not raise and that the TV would no longer operate (turn on) points to the ignition interconnect malfunction. That interconnect operates a relay that sends 120VAC power to the outlet that the TV plugs into only when the ignition is turned off and prevents the TV lift (12VDC or 24VDC) from operating. Plug in the TV to a different outlet and it working makes perfect sense when taking the ignition interconnect into account.

Maybe the the interconnect is out of sequence/confused?

Try this,

Make sure the ignition key is off,

Make sure you are plugged into shore power,

Try to let the TV lift down as far as it will go,

Plug the TV back into the original outlet,

Try to turn on the TV.

If the TV works, turn the TV off and try to raise the TV lift all the way.

Let us know what happens. Hopefully somebody a whole lot smarter than me on your specific conversion will be along and be able to tell you where to look for the specific relays, fuses and breakers.

[Jerry]

I think some hard wired installs like Art’s are really good and in some cases might make sense or even be the best choice.

But everything on our coaches seems to be a compromise. I would have to do the installation on mine at the common point between left and right external plugs or my cord reel. So in that case location and space become an issue. But if I did that, and the protector failed it puts me in the position of having to do some wiring in the field to by-pass a failed surge protector. So for now I have a far less elegant separate unit that I have been using for years.

It is not as simple to use as one permanently installed, but if it fails I can either not use it or just run to the internet and order another.

I cannot speak to the reliability of permanently installed units, but in some instances the external plug in type have had a lot of failures discussed on these forums.