Jeffrey & Linda
Forum Replies Created
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Nothing “stupid” about that my friend… “stupid” is NOT having the sense to ask… with multiple switches everywhere you look it’s not surprising at all !!
Ask away !
Cheers, Diane
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C & G,
Doubt I’ll be going anywhere, maybe Tuesday, the slight cabinet modification is my biggest concern. The new fridge is 1/4 inch taller than the original and Marathon had that fridge’s fit & finish within a gnats hair of the cabinet dimensions.
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Jon….I’am really sorry to hear you never owned a Marathon. With our help we could make this happen.
My Marathon AUX tank was original. The replacement idea started when opening the drain line finding it would stop draining. Back blowing the line it would start again and then stop. This was the dirt and rust from inside the tank discharge air line.
Back on this thread is the replacement story of our original tank. I believe years of probably not draining caused the issues of rust and rust colored water.
Shaking the old tank removed from it’s mounting sounded like marbles inside. I’am happy to have the replacement behind me. It was a little touch and go finding a replacement tank. At one point I was going to buy a compressor from Lowes just for the tank.
If two (2) cruise airs were not located behind the front bumper that’s where the AUX tank would be mounted today.
Grainger carries replacement pancake and hot dog style tanks.
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I’m curious, when you drained your Marathon Aux tank, was
there any evidence of moisture or sediment? Mine is a 98, looks to be stock and is dry as a bone when emptied. Everything seems to be working as it should.Interestingly, I don’t have a yellow valve or see any
writing on any yellow tape. I wonder if it’s an H thing, or perhaps a change
added after my vintage. I’ve been working with Leon and Chris with my Marathon Aux
system in Coburg and over the phone and email and they’ve never mentioned it.For sure this will be added to my Marathon list this spring.
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I notice on Bella Terra’s website, restricted to motorhomes no older than 15 yrs old.
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Me and Micki plan to be there!
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Peter is correct regarding issues with the push in fittings but if you are looking for likely trouble areas start with the ones that seem to have been mentioned most frequently. If I failed to say so, seats are notorious for leaks at the valves especially.
But all of us who have coaches with push in fittings instead of compression fittings are going to be victims of the effects of aging on those fittings. Compression fittings being metal to metal are unaffected by age so if you intend to replace fittings you see leaking, try to use compression fittings.
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do the displays have a dim or on and off feature that needs resetting?
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Hey Everyone,
Before I continue, I just want to say thank you to all of you for all the comments and points you have made!
Because we have been thinking about this for awhile now and because we have some close friends who just bought a older model Prevost and cannot stop talking about it, we are heading down the path.
All the comments about the H’s vs the X’s are exactly relevant and it will take some time to reconcile those opinions with our likes and dislikes. The comments about mileage are also relevant and it is partially what brings us to Prevost, the more commercail application seems to dramatically impact durability and reliability which naturally makes sense economically! Floor plans are tricky because they are all custom, even in the refits so knowing the market is fairly limited and so if we see what we like we must be prepared to move, this is a very important comment as well. We are at our house in Mexico and so are time frame and schedule dictates that we wait for a bit or negotiate some other deal and because of that, we can make the best use of our time to learn!
I am a Tug Captain so I understand the importance of maintenance to all manner of equipment so that doesn’t bother me in the least especially as it applies to the fulltimer who has shed many of the other trappings of normal life. To say we are excited about this is an understatement, it fits so perfectly in our life. Thank you all for all of your help and opinions! Be rest assured, many more questions to follow!!
Jeff
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Geo, you are right, if we drive anything like we have with our other coach, we’ll put just over 9,000 miles a year on it.
I just figured it up, our average was 9,100 per year over the 7.5 yr. we drove the other coach.
Our new coach started off with just under 3,200 miles as it had to be driven from Canada to N. Chicago then to Florida for delivery.
Safe travels,
Mark
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Jeff and Lynn:
I 2x everything that those who have gone before have said and want to reinforce a few things.
Marathon likely builds a good coach, but you’ll be happier in a Liberty. 😉
We bought our first motorhome/RV in April from a private owner. During our search I checked the new listing on PC, POG, RV Trader, eBay, RacingJunk, and a few others I can’t remember. You might be surprised to learn we found our coach on Craigslist.com. It was the ONLY place it was advertised. I used OneCraigs.com to find it. We also found another one advertised solely on Craiglist.com that was located near Calgary, Alberta. Again, only place advertised was in CL. My message is that you’ll find them for sale in the likely places as well as some unlikely places too.
The coach essentially had no records, hadn’t been driven much in that last three or four years. Using the knowledge we learned on PC and POG as well as talking to GeorgeP, Jon, and one or two others on the Forum we think we have made a successful purchase.
The #1 contribution to our success was the fact that the coach was stored 18 miles from Jeff Rowe’s Eastern Tennessee Luxury Coach shop. Jeff did a prepurchase inspection. He convinced me that given the lack of records there was a list of stuff to do on the coach to “zero it out”. He also identified some “issues” that needed to be dealt with once we got the bus to his shop and up in the air. Without his assistance we’d be struggling.
Feel free to contact me anytime if you have questions about the process we went through and what we experienced. My email is open.
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Lacking a 24 volt coil for the center solenoid valve you have two choices. Wait for one to replace the existing one, or disconnect the air line feeding the manifold the solenoid valves are on, and connect it to the air line coming from the third solenoid valve down. What that will do is activate the Norgren valves that will let the ride height valves function. You will not have any leveling functions but you will be at the drive height.
The other issues can then be addressed when you get to ETLC.
As far as the water trap and spitter, I don’t know your air system history, but the spitter and the Norgren trap(s) with the valve on the bottom are going to trap moisture from the aux compressor line mostly, but if they have been drained and you still get moisture I would take a hard look at the chassis accessory aiur tank, and if you find moisture there you may have water everywhere.
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Peter, no big whup….we stole it from Steve Earle in the first place. It just fit our lifestyle and we love ****-kickin Outlaw music.