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  • Wheel Specifications

    Posted by Archived on September 19, 2013 at 7:25 am

    I am in the process of changing out the wheel covers on the drive axle and the process involves grinding and polishing out pitting and scratches on the wheels where the old covers made contact. Yesterday I jacked the curb side (starboard) drive wheels up to rotate the wheel and while the wheel was up I decided to perform a wheel straightness test. After making several checks/measurements, I am comfortable with a wheel lateral runout variation of 0.033 inches in one full turn of the wheel. Does anyone one know what is an acceptable limit or specification for this test? Also, and I know this has been discussed several times before, but what is the correct correct torque for wheel nuts installed on the steer, tag, and drive wheel studs respectively?

    Thanks for your help.

    Tom

    Archived replied 13 years ago 4 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • Archived

    Member
    September 19, 2013 at 7:55 am

    That public acknowledgment of 33″ of runout is likely to take several thousands of dollars of value from your coach when you sell it.

    OK, just kidding Tom. I think the torque spec is 450 ft/lbs.

    Regarding runout you really do not know if it is the wheel, or the hub face or even the machining of your brake drum that is the problem. A few thousandths variation of the thickness in the face of the drum where it goes over the wheel studs could translate into that much runout which I suspect (but don’t know) is relatively small compared to what is allowable.

  • Jerry

    Member
    September 19, 2013 at 9:05 pm

    This may be too far from relevent to be any help. But the max acceptable runout on a car brake rotor is 12 inches. 31 inches is about 1/32nd of an inch, and you may be measuring at the bead of the wheel near the outer circumference. I would guess that 33 inches would be acceptable, but I don’t know for sure.

    My understanding for aluminum wheel torque is consistent with Jon’s, 450 ft lbs.

  • Jerry

    Member
    September 19, 2013 at 9:46 pm

    I just put new tires on my drive. I removed the wheels and tires in my shop, and carried them to the tire dealer for mounting and balancing. When I removed the outer wheel on the curb side, I was shocked to see written on the inner steel wheel with a grease pen……..”Bent Wheel”. So, I figured its got to be bent if someone went to the trouble to write it on there, but why would they put it back on I thought?

    So, the tire guy verified the wheel is bent when he put it on a spin balancer. (it had hammer on lead weights before). We were leaving to go on a planned trip, so I tried to find a wheel. I could not find one in a 9″ width. I even calle Prevost Jax, and they didn’t have one. They also suggested that most with complaints of vibrations on the rear, are changing to aluminum on the inside. BUT, I was having NO vibration or bouncing at all, anywhere.

    I decided to put the bent wheel back on with Equal installed, went on a 900 mile trip, everything was perfect, I even had my wife ride in the back for a while (since I can’t get her to drive under any circumstances) to see if there was any vibrating, shaking or anything.

    Her response was after coming back up front, “It’s so smooth back there, I could put my Eye liner on with no problem, in fact it’s the smoothest ride ever”

    So, I’m saying a little runout on a steel wheel is not a problem……………..and I’m trying to decide on replacing inners with aluminum or not?

  • jack

    Member
    September 20, 2013 at 5:44 am

    Jerry,

    If I had to replace a wheel on the drive axle I would be looking at super singles.

  • Archived

    Member
    September 20, 2013 at 8:13 am

    Gil – Spend thousands of dollars instead of replacing a wheel for a couple hundred bucks, I don’t follow that.

    Jerry – Touch base with Ken, he had tires and wheels on the Flea Market.

  • orren

    Member
    September 20, 2013 at 9:42 am

    Tom good catch. I didn’t realize he already bought tires. Super single Alcoa wheels are about $450 according to the tire shop I’m at right now.

  • Archived

    Member
    September 20, 2013 at 9:52 am

    When a super single comes apart it will destroy a lot more than a 315 tire,I would not take the chance.

  • Archived

    Member
    September 20, 2013 at 10:27 am

    The other concern would be availability of 455’s, it’s bad enough with 315’s and 365’s.

  • Archived

    Member
    September 20, 2013 at 12:18 pm

    Take this with a grain of salt but I think I read tire failures are more frequent with the super singles.

  • Archived

    Member
    September 20, 2013 at 1:20 pm

    And traction in the winter, or on slippery roads are not as good. I know several drivers who have had them on and asked to have them taken off because of that.

    They are weight savers, but cause other issues I won’t deal with.

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