[Archived]

There is a difference if you are replacing with the old type. There is an A series and a B series. They look the same. I have two perfectly wrong ones !

I replaced mine with a new Delco Remy and in the box it tells how to jumper the DN50 to make it work if you have the other series. The new Delco will work on either if you jumper it correctly.

I found all this out after a very dark drive home one night.

[Davy]

Journeyman, I called Elgin and I had them send me the diagram from the part that they sell… for a lot more money # 560030 and in there it shows how to jump it so I should be ok with that even if these other ones on ebay don’t have the paper work.

Thanks for the info!

Fred

[Per]

If (when) I have to replace my regulator, since all my batts are agm, I will buy the 3-stage regulator. Can’t remember name or where to buy, but it’s been discussed on our site.

[Davy]

Balmar

http://www.balmar.net/

[Archived]

I have one of the Balmar regulators on my 99 CC and it works great.

[Archived]

This is just a genral comment regarding alternator voltage regulators.

The “dumb” kind originally supplied with the coach require a setting as specified in the Prevost service manual for the coach. For my coach it is about 27.7 volts (13.85V). For my wet cell chassis batteries or my AGM house batteries that is inadequate at “standard” temperature.

But since the alternator as installed by Prevost is for the chassis batteries I believe the engineers probably monitored temperatures at the chassis batteries and determined at the temperatures likely the specified voltage setting is correct for a full charge of the chassis batteries.

Battery charging voltages are temperature specific so if the Prevost specified voltage is on the safe side it is because the engineers know the coaches are just as likely to be driven in AZ mid summer as well as Duluth mid winter.

For a 3 stage “smart” voltage regulator the ideal is to have one that has temperature compensation and regardless of if the alternator charges house and chassis or house only the best approach is to insure both sets of batteries NEVER see voltages in excess of those suggested for the temperatures being experienced.

I think a smart alternator with 3 stage charging and temperature compensation is ideal and it would eliminate partial charges which do take away life and performance from batteries.

Do your own research before deciding what to do with respect to voltage regulators but only after you have read a little about charging cycles. Some manufacturers make claims but those claims are little more than fertilizer for my garden.

[Fred]

One this voltage regulator topic, we have previously replaced one on our former Marathon H. Too much time has passed tho to recollect procedure. Both Chris and I remember there is one wire that is the first to come off and last to be reconnected. Anyone refresh our knowledge or was this just a dream. We came home from Indio last weekend for summer and our 270 amp idiot was on when bus motor ran. Light goes out if you start gender. Tech Link screen show house charge drops while driving. Leon suggest relay behind dash panel or regulator since dash gauge reads good charge.

[Andy]

Put a meter on the batteries with the bus running to check regulator. Not sure of any sequence if you have to change it out. Mine uses this:

[Archived]

Yes Tom that’s the one I installed as well. I had to run a fused wire to the positive poll while I was calculating it but it works well. An easy fix.