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Tricks for getting alternator belt off/on
Today I had to put my alternator belt back on (after replacing idler bearing) and after soliciting assistance from my wife and son I decided I wanted to see if I am missing anything. We have the automatic spring loaded tensioner with idler.
We use a long handle wrench, placing it in the slot at the tensioner and lots of muscle to move it. Then of course when putting a belt on, it it a very tight fit that takes a lot of effort to get it onto the alternator pulley. We usually end up with a large screwsdriver at the alternator pulley to assist getting it over the lip. I am sure some of you have done it much more than I or have seen mechanics remove/replace. Also not sure how one would do it without at least one helper.
Do you have any tricks or alternative approaches that makes it easier?
Thanks for any ideas.
Mike Harper
2004 Marathon XLII -
10 Replies
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A two foot breaker bar (1/2 inch socket) works well for getting the tensioner out of the way.
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You might also check the length of the belt. I recall when I first got my coach I replaced all the belts and had a brand new belt that was mislabeled/mismade or something but it was an inch longer than the belt that came off even though it was the right part number on the belt sleeve and printed on the belt. Ordered another and it was the right actual length.
You could either have the wrong belt or a mismade belt that is too short. I don’t recall any belt being that tight to get on if you crank the tensioner all the way to the stop on any vehicle.
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The spring loaded belt tensioner has a 1/2″ square socket in it and a 1/2″ 18 to 24″ breaker bar is all that is needed to easily relieve belt tension.
If the belt is the correct size with one hand the tension can be removed using the bar and with the other hand the belt can easily be installed or removed. If that is not the case, as explained above the belt may not be the correct one. Do not use screwdrivers or pry to get a belt on or off. It can damage the belt or pulley.
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+1 on the 24 inch breaker bar. You can find them very reasonably priced on ebay or Amazon. Or course, Home Depot and Lowe’s has them as well. Makes the job much easier.
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Try wrapping the alt pulley first and go over idler(s) last.
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Thanks for the ideas.
I ordered the new belt from Prevost based on the VIN and config, but will double check with them on sizing.
What is more interesting is that I have 1/2 inch breaker bars and my tensioner is definitely too tight to move one handed. I wonder if my tensioner is not correct in some way which is causing the difficulty. With that said I had the same belt on for 6+ years and no issues so I don’t think it is urgent, but now that I know it shouldn’t be so hard to move, I think I will have someone take a look next stop at a shop where they are familiar with the expected tension.
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I will not suggest the belt tensioning device doesn’t require a few pounds of effort, but with a reasonable length breaker bar (I have used both 18″ and 24″) it is not difficult to swing the belt tensioner through the arc needed to release belt tension and remove the belt.
It is important the breaker bar is oriented when put in place to it sits perhaps a little above horizontal so a downward force to a position just below horizontal allows easy belt removal.
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+1 on post from BGLogistics
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Thanks – Will definitely do that next time I take it off.
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I would keep an eye on that belt for awhile…screwdrivers are not necessarily a recommended method for belt installation.
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