[Jon]

I would turn off the water heater(s) and make sure you only have 1 A/C turned on. After a few hours the charger will have kicked down out of bulk charge and you should be able to turn the water heater on (1 if you have 2) and then just monitor what you are using when hair dryers need to be run or any other high load appliance.

[DON]

Just remember you need to keep each leg under 15 amps.

[John]

The only viable option except for bare bones storage use, is to run the generator.

[Bill]

Different coaches have different demands but I have camped in our coach on 30amp many, many times and it’s quite doable. Am I going to be able to do that when it’s 90+ degrees outside? Nope, not without the generator. But if is moderate to cold outside 30 amp will do just fine. You will likely have to run the genset to cook assuming all electric but it won’t be necessary all day/ all night.

[Archived]

For answers to the first question, it first has to be determined what devices and systems require 120V, and how much current draw each requires.

In my coach, just to cite a few examples, I have a Headhunter water pump and it pulls somewhere between 10 and 15 amps. If I want hot water my HW tank draws about 10 amps. My refrigerator pulls about 5 or 6 amps. My inverters can pull whatever I set them at and right now both are set at 10 amps. Then there are TVs and phantom loads, and any use of DC power adds loads to the inverters.

With 30 amps the true full load assured capacity is 24 amps, but if the breakers are good and all RV park wiring connections are tight you can have up to 30 amps available but don’t count on it.

I did not buy a Prevost to live in a tin tent and would rather park at Walmart with the generator running than in an RV park with only 30 amp power.