[DON]

I bought an ESCO BREAK-BACK, goes to 700 or 750 I think. It was close to $800 a few years ago. Couldn’t find anything in the price range you’re looking for.

Since I pull wheels occasionally it’s been nice to have. Much cheaper than a wheel coming off.

[Bill]

This is the one I have

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PX16Z4Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Archived]

Billy-

I imagine it is high quality, but out of my price range, as I hope to use it infrequently.

Mike-

Now you’re talking, RH & LH, that is more along the lines of what I’m looking for.

Thanks!

[Archived]

Yes Sir! Glad to help.

[David]

Another way to do it is make an extension bar, and use your existing 1/2″ drive 150 or 200 lb torque wrench. I made one up (pictured at end below) using some scrap lying around. Cannibalized/welded on Harbor Freight socket adapters 1/2 to 3/4 to get the holes for the torque wrench to fit one end and the the 3/4 output on the other end.

https://www.harborfreight.com/impact-socket-adapter-set-3-pc-61991.html

There is a calculator here

http://www.rv7.us/a_u-torquewrenchsetting.htm

that gives you torque setting to get output you want. For my extension tool which is 40 inches long center to center on the 1/2 and 3/4 fittings and torque wrench length 21.5″ (there is usually a line on the handle showing effective length to the socket drive output) indicated torque of 166 lbs is 475 at the 3/4 drive output. Make your extension appropriately based on capacity of your existing torque wrench.

TORQUE STICK OPTION

The opinions and postings about accuracy/inaccuracy of torque sticks are legion. However I convinced myself this weekend when putting on my new front tires, they (at least the set up I used) are pretty darn accurate and close enough even for an OCD person like me. I used a 3/4 drive CP 772 set on near max number 6 on the dial, 1/2 air hose at 110 psi at the regulator. I used this torque stick and 1 1/2″ socket combo tool

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0811XZJ88/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

and let it bang away for about 2-3 seconds until the nuts stopped turning. After tightening them all this way in the prescribed sequence, I went back and checked each nut with my torque wrench set up. About half of the nuts clicked before they turned, so I tightened those no further. The other half turned maybe a few degrees ( the end of the torque wrench which was 60″ away from the torque axis moved 3-6″) and the wrench clicked. To me this means on average the nuts were pretty close to 475. Since the torque spec is 450 – 500 ft lbs I declared “Close enough!” and put away my tools. I mean, I am going to recheck them after driving 100 miles or so anyway. In the future I am just going to use the torque stick, call it done for that day and just do the confirming check after 100 miles.

[Art]

Dave:

What’s the Prevost part number on that?

LOL

Chuck

[Art]

Hey – I said I made it out of scrap laying around! Lets call it Prevost part number TWEAKS1.0 – Torque Wrench Extension And Knuckle Saver version 1.0

If I was making one to be pretty, I would have used 1×3″ rectangular 1/8″ wall steel tubing and set the 1/2″ drive end socket into the tubing with access from both sides so you could use it with a right hand only torque wrench – but there wasn’t any of that laying around.

[Archived]

I bought a Proto Torque on E-Bay a few years ago in the red plastic case up to 600 LBS