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Stranded vs Solid wire for 120volt wiring
I’ve read in the past that motorhomes should use stranded wire rather solid wire that is used in stationary residential and commerical AC applications.
I’ve poked around in our Liberty conversion enough to know that both the AC wiring is stranded.
My question is “why”? Is it related to the fact that the motorhome will move around on the road and the wiring will flex which would eventually result in broken solid wires simply do to the movement?
I’m added an additional outlet in a closet (for a rechargeable vacuum) and need to run a wire from the outlet in the private commode room to the closet. Where can I buy stranded Romex? Is stranded Romex made?
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15 Replies
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Looking at pictures of some of my AC wiring, it appears to be solid. Are you sure you have stranded?
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Looking at the wiring to the GFCI in the private commode, its stranded.
Maybe in the 12 years between your coach and ours Liberty switched from stranded to solid.
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In my opinion. No. You were correct about precieved movement causing a solid wire to become brittle. Most marine applications are stranded for this reason. Notice extension cords are stranded because of flexing. On a caution side just make sure to anchor your romex to reduce movement. I have found both in pro built conversions. FWIW prob nothing but at least starts thinking process.
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Solid wire in electrical power outlets such as in a campground needs to be occasionally tightened. I suspect the metal cold flows just enough . I know in the factory all wire connections are torqued to a spec, but even the slight jarring and movement from shipping loosens the connections and a loose conection is a heat source.
I personally would not use anything but stranded, and tinned marine quality stranded wire would be my choice.
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Jon wrote: “I personally would not use anything but stranded, and tinned marine quality stranded wire would be my choice.” Is that available in Romex? Have you ever added 120volt wiring to one of your coaches? How did you do it?
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Mark, Liberty only uses stranded….stranded is the only way to go..
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Is it possible to buy “stranded Romex”? It looks like that is what Lliberty used. If so, where?
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My searches always begin the the internet.
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It’s funny to see Jon and internet in the same sentence. Geo.
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Thanks Jon! I didn’t have “marine” in my search and that is why I was always close but no cigar.
Looks like West Marine has the best deal for me. 100′ of 14/3 “triplex” ANCOR tinned copper wire is $109. That should cover my needs for a while.
Others like Del City in the Milwaukee area had a 250′ minimum.
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George, Jon and Internet in the same sentence is somewhat similar to an Oxymoronic statement. Pun intended.
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If they have 12/3 would give you a little more capacity than a 20 amp breaker. Not a bad price..
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Mark, Liberty only uses stranded….stranded is the only way to go..
Jeff, I would think it would be better too. It must look almost the same. The stuff under the kitchen sink sure looks like normal household romex. You know why I had those pictures…..
1999 XLV X-6872, liberty #440 -
Mark: This is what I’m going to order.
Looks like Romex in the picture and looks like Romex in the wiring/plumbing chases. But is stranded, tinned, copper marine grade. The ground (green) is also insulated. Reading reviews of the product on-line it sounds like this is used for both AC and DC applications. Maybe the boat guys will check in on this.
I was able to buy stranded copper at Home Depot and flexible PVC conduit to run it on, but it isn’t tinned and not marine grade. So that goes into inventory for a future non-coach related project.
I found the ANCOR wire at West Marine.
This is the surface mount outlet I’m putting in the closet. Metal case and base with plastic face plate. Made to be used with a surface mount conduit molding system, but I’m putting it on an existing piece of plywood above a wiring/plumbing chase and the wire will go through a knobout in the back. I wasn’t looking forward to cutting a hole in the plywood, I’m neither a carpenter or a cabinet maker. The white color matches the inside of the closet.
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You’re doing it right. Be sure to run your ground wire to the metal Wiremold box, as well. There will be a tapped 10-32 hole in the baseplate for a grounding screw. Without doing so, a fault could cause the box to become energized, leading to a shock hazard. I’ve seen it happen.
A guy replaced a 3-way switch on a 277volt lighting circuit (not on a bus) with a single-pole switch. Didn’t know what do do with the extra wire so he hooked it to the green screw on the switch, made the surface-mounted box and conduit hot! Conduit was pulled apart under the floor so it wasn’t grounded. If someone had touched the box and anything grounded nearby, could have been a fatality.
FWIW, I’m using stranded type MC (metal clad) cable in my current (no pun) home build.
Regards,
Ted.
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