[Bob]

Fred,

Is there a metal shop close to you? If you can get a piece of scrap stainless to practice on you will be better off. You can duplicate the scratches and then sand them out and then polish the sanding marks.

I made a trim piece below the bumper to hide the hinges with 12 gauge stainless. I bent it, cut it and welded it to mold it like I wanted. Then took a 1/4 sheet vibrator sander, starting with a coarser grit and worked up until it looked great, then polished it until it looked chrome.

Keep us posted.

[Archived]

Do you have shop air? key scratches prob ready for compound. Others would try start with 200 wet dry run same way with scratches; paper on fingers in curve area. Small area and see what it does. if you need out of way place to experiment. below behind front bumper . Don’t spend much time before going with finer paper. 600 1000 1500paper then compound. That will go quick. Don’t go to far or you will have to bring rest of bus up to match. If you have shop air will link you to a neet curve tool that works in the rib area. cheap$ keep black stuff wiped off it will clog everything. Bob

[Jim/Chris]

Fred,

You might find the forum on this web site helpful. Lots of help and advise available.

forum.caswellplating.com

I use their products but have no interest in the company. Joining the forum is free.

Tom

[Archived]

Hey Bob, I do have shop air and I would be nterested in any tools that may help with this process. Thank you

[Fred]

a 90 degree die grinder (cheap hf) 1/4 inch drive. Use a velcro (sp) 3 inch pad ,avaliable at body shop supply and they have 1000-1200 and 1500 3M pollishing disc to fit on it. Fits belly next to raised part of rib just rite. Tip turn air pressure down to 60 lb then adjust up or it tends to launch disc. Might be all you need on key scratches. Bob

[Georges]

Thanks Bob! I appreciate the info. I’ve got a scratch on one of my tag hubcaps too so I thought I’d start there before moving on to the “real” stainless. If I screw up the cap I can always get a new one!