[Davy]

“Razor sharp handling”? Really? Come now, I’m afraid I’ll have to give a clear edge to my BMW Z4. What I’m looking for is stability and comfort. Based on the weights we’re dealing with and the shocks resistance ( they can still be moved by hand) it would take a huge difference in shock to make a significant difference in handling. Obviously, if the old shocks are toast, ANY shock makes a huge difference.

My factory fronts (assumption they were original, I acquired the coach at 47K) came off at about 120K (Prevost was on a selling mission) and were replaced by Koni’s set on medium. They felt a bit stiffer but I didn’t find that surprising considering the mileage on the originals…nothing like night and day difference. Recently, at about 175K, the right front shock absorber shaft snapped clean on a moderate bump. I’ve never experienced this type of failure previously. After Speaking with Koni re warranty, I decided it was too much hassle (fill out this form, ship it to us for review, etc.) and got a deal on 2 Monroe’s. Installed one on the RF, left the Koni on LF…can’t tell the difference. I’ll replace mine individually as they begin leaking, thanks, anyhow.

I do agree, however, that tire pressures, tire sizes, air bag sizes and especially sway bar setups will make a difference. I would also suspect that going to the four shock front setup available on some coaches should make a significant difference, however I’m not sure that would be a positive difference in most cases.

[Chip & Pam]

The shocks are not going to make that scary curve treat the coach any differently.

Except in my case it sure seemed like it did. The difference was night and day after new shocks. I already mentioned that I do not drive fast. I take curves very carefully. I did not drive differently after replacing the shocks but I noticed a remarkable difference. Like I said it may be in my mind but there were no other variables.

Davy

[Larry & Diane]

“Razor sharp handling”? Really? Come now,

You have to understand… my previous coach was a Wanderlodge…! 🙂 I do think, however, that owners have a tendency to dial all the bounce out of their buses. I always try to remember that I probably have the worst seat in the house. Perched two feet in front of the most heavily loaded axle everything is magnified. In the early days of wanderlodge ownership I’d ask my wife if she felt that bump in the road. Her response, snugly sitting in the dinette close to the center of pitch, was always, “no, I didn’t feel a thing”! Bless her heart! If we tighten our Koni’s down to the point of minimal bounce then we trade off ride quality. Buses are suppose to bounce aren’t they? I don’t know if you’ve noticed but Koni shocks have very little, if any, damping on compression. Virtually all damping is on rebound. When we hit cobblestone like surfaces the shock prevents the suspension from fully recovering. This is how they settle so quickly on lane change. By keeping the suspension somewhat compressed for a short duration we get slot-car-like lane change ability, but we also get a stiffer ride over the bumpy stuff. After driving without shocks I’ve recalibrated myself. I now welcome the bounce and I allow the suspension to travel throughout it’s full range. If the shocks dial out wheel tramp then to me they’ve done their job.