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Series 60 not starting?
I was helping a friend yesterday replace his batteries in his 97 Featherlite 40 ft. He wanted to replace his starter batteries because it would not fire up? After replacing batteries I cranked it from rear,It spun great,but no fire, He said the old batteries did the same thing. The series 60 has no fuel shut off? What kills the engine when key is shut off, Injectors? Is there anything to check if engine spins but no fire?
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15 Replies
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Art,
Had a friend with the exact problem and turned out to be the cam sensor. Jon will probably jump in here as well.
2000 Featherlite H3-45
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Leesburg, FL -
One of the top two resources in the Prevost world has checked in. The other is probably hoeing his vegetable garden and will check in shortly.
Try this too:
Prevost PASS
24/7 assistance
(800) 463-7738How old were the batteries that you removed?
Are both the 12 and 24 volt cut-out master switches back in the ON position? Have you tried to start it from the the drivers seat?
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He has only owned bus for a year now old batteries ??
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Answering a question about why a bus won’t start is like answering how high is up.
My first step would be to verify the breakers for DDEC are getting power. Between equalizer failure and tripped breakers if the ECM doesn’t have power it will not start.
My next step would be to see if it has fuel getting to it. The older the coach the more likely fuel lines are allowing the entry of air into the system or that there are bad check valves.
The next probable cause is exactly what Tom mentioned. Pick the low hanging fruit first, then get a reader on it and see what codes show up.
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on mine the front switch has to be on/or rear start toggle switch on..Those known to go bad. also ddec has to have power direct from battery(fused) other items low oil or oil pressure. low coollant in tank low voltage==over 11.6 volts(toDDEC)
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Just heard from, He said tech filed filters and fired right up.
1984 96" with 8V92TA
(remodeled Liberty Coach)
Greenwood, MO -
Jon:
Speaking of air in the fuel, how’s your trail going with the new fuel air separator system?
Chuck
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He called and said tech said primary filter w/water trap was loose and sucking air, that makes more since
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The Air Dog installation as reported is complete and I do not have enough miles on it to provide any insight into fuel economy or performance. We have a number of trips scheduled or planned through April and if I feel I have enough information I may provide a preliminary report of the numbers.
Short term I now have a means of comparing the original system to the Air Dog system for engine smoothness and performance so as soon as practical I will see if I can get that done. My biggest concern is figuring out how to get those comparisons accurate and measurable. My seat of the pants told me the engine ran smoother on the way home from the Air Dog installation but if I cannot measure it with any degree of accuracy, my opinion isn’t worth anything.
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Air in the fuel system was my second thought, but did not expect it to be a loose fuel filter. One huge advantage we get in person to person discussions is we can get more information than is provided on a forum where we only learn what someone is willing to reveal.
Replacing chassis batteries has always been a reason for a coach not starting which is why I initially focused on power to the ECM breakers. If it spins it is getting 24V, but if the replacement batteries were mis-cabled there might not be the 12V needed for the ECM.
If a filter change was mentioned I probably would not have changed the sequence of things I would have checked, but I likely would have asked about if the filters were filled with fuel and the system primed. Maybe. 20/20 hindsight is always accurate.
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Jon:
Your “seat of the pants” feel is probably a better judgment than most professional trails. Looking forward to further input.
Chuck
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What did he do with batteries he removed?
Where did the tech come from?
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I just replaced a lot of batteries on the bus (chassis and generator) and nobody wants the old ones because the demand for lead is way down.
Used to be they had scrap value. Not now.
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Since you just changed batteries, make sure you reconnected the small ECU battery terminals. Without it will crank but not start.
6 months after I changed chassis batteries, the bus would suddenly no longer start. Turned out my ECU battery connector made a bad connection and when temps dropped to freezing overnight, there was just enough conductivity to show power to the ECU but not enough current flow to fire the injectors. The ECM did not set any codes. Lesson learned: Use either a low-Z meter or a bulb drawing at least one amp to test for ECM power at the relays in the rear enclosure.
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The local battery recycler is paying .15/Lb here. I’m taking them my ole house batts and some ole race car batts this week. 🙂
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