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Sconce Dimmers on CC
I tried to replace the incandescent 12V bulbs in my salon sconces with high-end LED bulbs from MarineBeam. When I did so, they were not compatible with the rotary dimmers that CC installed. LEDs require new solid-state dimmers so I ordered some. That is where the fun begins!!!
The new dimmers are 4-wire. +/- Input & +/- Output. They are clearly meant to switch the hot supply to the bulbs.
As I discovered, the old dimmers are 3-wire and I just assumed the grounds were common on the 3rd wire. What I discovered is that the dimmer is fed by one red wire (constant hot), a green ground wire common to L&R side dimmers, and a dedicated green wire for each side.
I had assumed the dedicated green was a hot return to the lights, but it has voltage on it and when grounded, the lights turn on.
35 years since I graduated as an EE and haven’t done analog since, but I have to assume that in this setup, the sconces are fed with a hot, and that the dimmers are attenuating the path to ground. The constant hot red wire must just be powering the circuitry on the old dimmer.
Any insight or advice greatly appreciated. ’92CC
Liam
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4 Replies
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Liam,
I have a 99 and the lights that you describe are 110VAC. The only 12V in mine are the mini spots in the ceiling and the rope lighting.
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My CC sconce lights are 110 v also. I have a 1995 CC.
FYI
Hector
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Mine are definately 12V lamps, they must have upgraded in later years.
I gave it another shot today and found that the red and green wires to both sets of sconces were in the bundle behind the switches (in the magazine rack) so that I could properly re-wire to install the new dimmers. It worked.
Now my issue is that when I install the LED bulbs, the buzz badly at less than full on. The dimmers are from the same outfit that sells the bulbs, so I have a question into them.
It is never easy!!!
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I have used LED’s in other applications, not the bus. I have not had very good luck with them, I do believe that they operate on a much lower amperage than lets say 2 amp typical 12V Interior Light….that’s a guess. Think you may need an inline resistor prior to the switch if that is mated to the lights, another guess. A pot may well do the job as well……all of that is from my experience in other 12V arenas, not the bus.
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