[Kirby]

Jon….

I am literally pulling this out of my butt telling you what I would do and it may not be the best answer for your situation because I don’t know a lot of the necessary details.

I assume the leak is not a gusher, but is leaking enough to require you to top off the system periodically. First, I would get rid of the pressure in the system doing two things. First, remove (loosen) the cap on the surge tank. The pressure in the system will allow the boiling point to be higher than an unpressurized system but right now pressure is not your desire.

To keep the system cool so you do not need an eleated boiling point I would lock the fan clutch in low speed. Look at the relay functions on the diagram on the engine door and identify the low speed relay (#78???). Break off tab number 85 from the relay. That will lock the low speed fan on and unless you encounter hills it should keep your coolant temp low enough to limit the temp to the thermostat setting. You should see your runing temps cycle around 190 to 195.

Finally, when you get to a truck stop get some radiator stop leak and add it to the system.

If the leak is not too bad, and if you are vigilant you can get some miles under your belt to reach your destination and deal with the issue when you are not pressed for time. Pulling your radiator , getting it repaired or replaced and getting you back on the road is dependent upon the ability of the mechanic and the shop that can repair radiators and since a wedding is important it seems if I were in your position I would get to the wedding first, then risk dealing with a shop of unknown abilities.

If it is not a slow leak you have to be very cautious and maybe leave the bus somewhere safe. It has a low coolant sensor that will shut you down, literally. You do not want to experience a stop engine light unless you are in a place you can safely get off the road.

[Jonathan]

I had a “slow” leak on my radiator. Initially throught it was the fitting where the surge tank line went into the top of the radiator. Replaced fitting and line. Seemed to fix it, but did notice some coolant a couple days later while traveling across the country. Kept an eye on it and kept the system topped off. Got it back to ETLC and pulled the radiator. Was looking at getting a new one until Prevost notified us it would take a good 6+ weeks. Took the radiator to a local shop in Knoxville and had them rebuild the radiator. Core was good, side tanks were good, problem was the seals.

They pulled it all apart, cleaned the core and tanks, replaced the seals and put it all back together. Cost me a fraction of a new radiator and was done in a day!

The job is a big job, but not complex. While the radiator was out, also replaced the fan clutch since it had a little play in it. Also was easier to do that with the radiator out then in 😉

If your tanks and frame are good, even a core rebuild and new seals will be cheaper then a new radiator from Prevost (and a hell of a lot quicker!).

I am not sure I would a couple eggs in my radiator, but that’s just me. I would also determine where the leak is (seal, bad core, etc.) and determine if a leak stop is a good option. Not sure how it will do for a seal going bad as it may just cause more of the seal to fail leaving you in the same situation. I did about 5000 miles with a VERY minor leak and just kept an eye on it till I was back at ETLC to get it done.

[Archived]

Charles and Jon,

I am shooting for the wedding, then the radiator getting pulled and delt with at ETLC.

The radiator price was $4350 from Prevost/Qubec for the 39″ for my 97XL.

I dont heat up, I havent even had a clear site glass on the res tank from the leak.

I check each morning. With the dash A/C off she warms to maybe 205º and then comes down

to the 193º area. With the A/C on she gets to a little over 196º it seems and come back to just under 195º.

Oil temp is always under 200º even out here on I-94 in the heat and cruising at 70mph.

The check engine light comes on, pro-driver says CLS ? The res tank is never low, the water temp is like

I reported. My S60 seems to like 1600-1750 rpm for best fuel mileage and she doesnt heat up.

Have a great day Guys!!!

Jonathan

97 XL40 Royale #201

[joel]

Jon

I do get that CLS on the pro driver, I hit the info button and it goes off.

The check engine light is on and off, mostly on, I check level and it has never been low in the site glass.

I have a bad sensor, and a small leak.

You are the second guy to tell me use the stop leak so I will pick up some at tmro morning fill-up.

I will copy and paste the info you gave me to my Prevost notes for future reference as always.

Thanks again

Jonathan

97 XL40 Royale #201

---

1999 XLV X-6872,  liberty #440

[Archived]

I’ve had good luck with the stop leaks that looks like powdered aluminum but if you put that in, you may never have to fix it!

When I owned my 8V92, I began getting coolant in my oil. Mt shop couldn’t find source after dropping oil pan and pressure testing. Put in stop leak. Leak stopped, sold the coach after advising buyer of situation. Last time I talked with him, he had put almost another 150,000 miles with no trouble and no repair.

[Chas]

Jonathan………..

The additional information changes my opinion about releasing the pressure. I see your coach is a Royale which has driver’s air and because of that any time you run the driver’s air you are automatically locking the fan in the low speed so you do not have to modify the relay. Your A/C is keeping temps and resulting pressure low. But if the leak increases it will not hurt to release the pressure cap.

I think stop leak as some of us suggested is the best starting point along with a constant monitoring.

[Dana]

I’m still skeptical of putting unborn chickens or other products in the coolant system. If it was limited to the radiator, sure. But the system runs into the entire engine and possible more.

I would continue and monitored before adding something that wasn’t added from prevost from the start. If the system shows a higher level of leaking or other issues l, then maybe. But if it was me, I would monitor and keep it topped off at every stop.

granted, my background is 1’s and 0’s, so I look at anything like an egg or miracle seal as a hack. Along the same lines as slime to fix a punctured tire and depending on it.

[Archived]

I would run slower than 70

This is a big job to replace…

And…Prevost probably has a month wait on the radiator …it will need to be remade locally.

Pres

[Archived]

Thanks for all the input!

After listening to all…..eggs never made it in., (this isnt a Studerbaker)

I have been watching this leak and as suggested keep the expansion tank a little higher

than the site glass. I did add BAR’S stop leak this morning when engine was cold.

And I do use the dash A/C….. which during todays I-94 300mi run in 75-80º amb.

Coolant: 193-197º with a/c on.

194- 200º w/o a/c.

Oil temp: with the a/c on today 188-198º

w/o a/c….198-205º

MPH….was 67-70,…work zone slow 45 mph.

The was no noticable coolant seen when we stopped today.

Thanks from Wisconson Dell area heading east.

Jonathan

97 XL40 Royale #201

“Fool’s Paradise”

[Tim]

OH YA,…..

The check engine lite comes on and stays on, the CLS warning shows and I hit

the menu button and it clears for 100m then its on the Pro Driver again. Temps never high,

coolant level never low……its the sensor and will taks Jon’s advise and carry some with me soon!

Jonathan

[Archived]

A low coolant level sensor will initiate a stop engine light.

If it is that sensor putting a jumper between the two pins takes it out of the circuit because if that sensor fails the coach will shut down. It is one of the three reasons the coach will shut down. The coolant level, a high coolant temp or low oil pressure are the three reasons for a stop engine light.

A check engine light indicates an issue, but the coach can be driven.

[Harry]

Hi Jon,

The CLS is different then the high temp sensor I’m guessing.

So If I know over the 2000 mi. I’ve driven since getting the warning,

that reality is so far the leak is a small one, and maybe the application of BAR’S

has maybe stopped it…..taking the CLS and jumping has nothing to do with TEMP SENSOR.

The dash will show me coolant temp but wont show coolant level sensor reading.

Again my thanks to you and the group for your knowledge.

Jonathan

[Archived]

I don’t know what a CLS is but I can tell you there is nothing on the dash that tells coolant level until the sensor does not see coolant, at which point it doesn’t tell you it isn’t seeng it, but it gives you the stop engine light and afew seconds to get off the highway because it will turn off the engine.

[Archived]

FWIW,

The RVDash shows the coolant level , along with a few other readings that I have no analog dash gauges for.

I will still monitor My old dash gauges and compare them to the ipad readings.

Safe travels,

Rocky

[John]

Are you calling your Prevost an RV or are you talking about an RV whose dash shows coolant levels?

I am not aware of any Prevost installed dash with a coolant level display.