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  • Prevost front to rear engine control harness

    Posted by Bob on October 6, 2013 at 2:37 pm

    This one scarred the —– out of me ! but ended up being straight foward. Mine was severed and destroyed at rear bulkhead back!! Good new all wires are numbered every few inches and prevost has the codes. The twisted ones have the twis rate printed in the wireing chart etc. The only problem I’m having is picking up the 505 signal for the tach without going all the way to x1 or k1 on the engine ecm. Was going to cover the lights and other controls seperate but they are the same-numbered well. All conectors are tagged with code and tell what they do. There are arrows on the wire showing the direction of flow—to destination/fixture.. get a roll of numbers and letters when recreating the wireing harness and use heat shrink on connections. There are lots of spare wires;sometimes more than used wires in these harness. One nice thing on my vintage coach prevost and detroit ecm # did match up on cruise and jacob plus things like start ign etc. Bob

    Archived replied 12 years, 10 months ago 5 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • Larry & Diane

    Member
    October 10, 2013 at 8:24 pm

    Bob, I really admire your dedication. Can’t imagine touching my wiring harness. My wires are going everywhere would just freak me out to have to work on them. I’m just starting build out of the interior. Any ideas on where to start pulling down the overhead compartments? Thanks!

  • Archived

    Member
    October 11, 2013 at 7:43 pm

    Hey Mike

    Start anywhere you like. The compartments are bolted into rivunuts in the ceiling at periodic distances. Once you take out the bolts they just drop down. The next chore is to take a sawzal and cut them into manageable sections to take out through the door. Makes great wt to take to the salvage store to sell.

    Rob

    91 XL 40

    Missouri

  • Paul

    Member
    October 12, 2013 at 7:28 am

    Rob, LOL you’re right about the salvage wt. After failed attempts to sell the seats out of the coach, I finally realized their fate was to be scrap metal. 4 Days later after stripping them I think I got $200 for the metal. Oh well, at least they didn’t wind up in a landfill and I did help the enivorment. Thanks for the tip on where to begin with the overhead compartment removal. Hope to get started today!

  • Chuck

    Member
    October 12, 2013 at 7:54 am

    See Rob got you ansered. I was off at rally having great time at the GREAT AMERICAM BUS RALLY in Shellyville Tn . The alum out of racks you can use down the road for conversion if you have room to store the sheet and extrusions. The extrusions make good frame work or stiff backs for frame work. Sheeting is great for rough in then you can cover it and make look pretty. What is left in the end= $$ for oil&tires. Light bulbs out of reading lights fit all over coach. Just ask questions if you have problems. Bob

  • Archived

    Member
    October 25, 2013 at 6:22 pm

    Just about there having to intergreat the 10 spd ecm’s into the ddec harness and prevost harness plus the eaton is all 12 volt and prevost has some 24 volt mixed in. Any way my head is full but have it down to the last interface and actually it is just the physical doing it now! The last problem was getting the 24V prevost starting signal down to 12 volt eaton selonoid enable signal -a simple cube relay solved that. Glad this elect stuff is about done…!!!! The lights etc are history now.. So now the coach has 3.6 volt 12 volt 24 volt 120 volt 240 volt …I really had intended for it to be much simpler. Yes I do have a detailed set of drawings and notes… To jog my memory!!!! Bob

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