[Archived]

Rob, so far as I know, all the Prevosts have an air operated interior step “ledge” or cover. I don’t know of anyone that has an electric step , as the air leveling brings us low to the ground if we so desire. When this does not present itself as an option, I , for one, carry a small 4 legged adjustable step that I got at an FMCA rally. Good luck and post a pic or two, it will be interesting.

[Archived]

Rob,

Over the years I have seen a number of converted coaches that have had chassis and house items powered (air or electric) by wherever and whatever was easiest or closest. It drives people nuts when they have to trouble shoot. Maybe not the owner or mechanic that hooked stuff up initially, but the poor folks that have to deal with it at a later date.

Prevost builds conversion chassis with distinct places to tap into the air (auxiliary only) or electric. Converter do a great job of sticking to those places so it protects the integrity of the chassis and the house. Any time something in the house is hooked up to the chassis just because it makes fishing wires or air lines easier it tends to drive folks nuts at a later time when they try to figure why the batteries keep going dead or they keep losing air pressure.

A final note…….document everything you do. Create your own maintenance and shop manual so when future repairs or modifications need to be made it is much easier for you or subsequent owners to understand why and how stuff was hooked up.

Having said that, Prevost has several places for electrical connections available for both key on and key off power in both 12 and 24 volts. Any time I do anything on my coach, I try to make sure if it relates to the chassis I use those connections, and if it relates to the house I use power from the converter’s electrical connections just so I can keep track of stuff.

[Greg]

Jon

Mind sharing where the 12 volt chassis spots would be on a 91 XL40. Electrical is not my strong suit but I can get by most of the time.

Rob

91 Xl40

Missouri

[Greg]

I cannot remember exactly if my 87 was this way, but my 97 is. In the front electrical box under the driver window to the right is a vertical row of posts. Those posts are both key on and key off 12 and 24 volt.

In the rear electrical box at the bottom towards the right should be some large posts. They will be 12 and 24 volt and a ground. There are also key on and key off positions on the bus bar (I think to the right on the rear wall of the box and they might be at the circuit breakers.) I am saying this without going to my bus and verifying it, but the power for the chassis is there, but it might not be exactly as I describe. A few minutes with a volt meter will confirm what I described.

For the house you should either have 2 alternators, with one being for the chassis and other the house, or one large 24 volt alternator and an isolator. Either way from those sources whould be your house electric. I have a 24 volt house so my house power originates at the isolator, and like the chassis I also have some 12 volt house devices so my house batteries are wired in parallel and series and use an equalizer like the bus. My house electric comes from a large panel with disconnects and CBs next to the house batteries and it feeds bus bars in an electrical compartment in my #2 drivers side bay.

How you set up your house batteries, disconnects and distrubution may determine if or where you pull power for house devices.

[Ace]

Rob there is a larger bolt and nut in the lower right corner of your drivers side electrical box and that should be the 12v source from the engine batteries. I would say from a recent experience with depleted batteries that if it is going to be in uses while parked attach it to house batteries and if it is only going to function while driving attach it to the coach batteries. So step slide would be used while going down the road therefore coach batteries, steps while parked house batteries.