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Power Cord Reel Not Working
Dang power cord reel stopped working 5 ft short of being reeled in yesterday and you can’t close the bay door with the cord just folded down so I had to remove the first section of PVC pipe that the cord was inside and then roll it up carefully and then the door would close.
I think I feel vibration at the switch when I toggle it but being as deaf as I am I can’t hear it trying to run.
I wonder if it could be a fuse or if I have a bigger problem… it was rolling the cord in and then just stopped.
Fuse number to check maybe?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Happy July 4th weekend all !!
Cheers, Diane
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47 Replies
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I’ve never had to trouble shoot one, but the placed I would start would be to check all connections, then verify power to the motor. If there is power but the motor doesn’t run that problem is the motor. If not I would put power to the motor and if that makes it work I would go backwards in the circuits until I found where it was open. I don’t think that has any other magic such as a Crestron controlling it so the problem is apt to be located at the cord reel or the cicuit feeding it has a fuse or CB tripped.
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The cable might be in far enough that the nylon guide for the plug is catching on the tube, Glendinning has great customer service, can talk you through troubleshooting and will provide any parts you might need for a repair. I had to replace the motor on mine last year, http://www.glendinningprods.com/contact-us
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There are two limit switches that can prevent operation. One stops retraction when the collar hits the switch behind the rubber in the outlet. The other switch will stop payout of the cable when fully out. This could be your issue. This switch is between the guide rollers and the drum. Sometimes the cable bends and triggers this switch without the end collar hitting it.
Try to manually pull the cable out a few feet and check to make sure the switches are not sticking. You should hear them clicking or you can check for continuity with a ohm meter. You can also push the cable in manually but it is slow going.
Are you using the remote control or the momentary switch?
Basic wiring schematics for power reel is below. The limit switches are between terminal 87a and ground. Where it says “Window Motor” would be your reel motor.
Gerald
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Thanks Gerald I will check once I find out where all that wiring is hidden… It isn’t visible to me… the cord is inside a PVC pipe that disappears behind the OTR… can’t imagine how one would access it.
I looked on the opposite side of coach and it’s all the OTR.
I will check if I have power at the switch later and maybe will need to call Liberty for access instructions.
Liberty gets an A+ for hiding things !!
Thanks so much for your help.
Diane
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Hey Diane,
It’s Monday morning. Call Troy. He’s long awake by now. His availability is why I overpaid when I bought mine, and he’s worth every nickel. If you need his cell let me know.
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Sorry…did you get cord reel going fuse in 2nd bay should be 15amp wire number 82..
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Jeff…
You were dead right… fuse on wire #82 was blown… back in business here… thanks so much !!
Is there a wiring diagram of what all those fuses in my bus go to? I would love to have a copy of that at any price!!
Again thanks, you saved the day.
Cheers , Diane
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Dorel
I don’t know H’s but no one jumped in here. On a Marathon the fuses and some relays that power the switches on your plumbing manifold are in the Plumbing Makeup Panel.
Mine is a bay forward of the plumbing bay bolted to the roof of the bay. It looks like a 2ft by 3ft electrical box. In there are fuses.
Also lift the manifold door, there are some there too.
Later
bv
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There are two limit switches on my ’99 Marathon XLV. Both are tripped by collars on the cable. The one potentially causing a pay-out failure would be on the inside tripped by the end of the cable collar. The limit switch might just be stuck or jammed.
I think your fuses are ok since you can retract the cable. On our bus there is a thermal breaker in the battery compartment and a 3 amp fuse in the wiring panel on the passenger side wall in the rear closet. If you have the wireless control, there is a fuse and receiver in the driver side cabinet above the bed (window).
To help with the trouble shooting, the relays are wired just like a up/down power window circuit. Mine are behind the switches.
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Bernie, Greens, thanks for your input, will try in the AM and let you know the findings…appreciate your help!
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Dorel,
Mine is accessed by removing the driver side fender.
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Tom, since access to the outside push buttons is very limited, I was looking at the fender removal, never done it, but due to the size of the fender, not easy task , need couple more strong arms to help.
Got to the push button connectors/wires, thought maybe loose connection, no success.
I Will try the other two inputs from PC members, these I can do myself.
On your H3 where were the fuses / relays installed?
2nd bay D/S roof toward passenger side? I removed one of these panels a while ago, looking for awning breakers, there are lots of fuses there but I do not remember being labeled with name, just numbers, I might be wrong… -
I’m with Green, you have power and sounds like it’s a limit switch problem, so doubt there is a fuse issue. The H fender is easily removed by releasing 3 latches, left and right bottom and middle. Have a place to set the fender when you remove it such as a moving pad or something to keep it from getting scratched on the bottom while standing it up. It does take 2 people.
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Tom, where are these limits witches , inside the tube or in the cord storage box?
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Not sure, maybe someone else will jump in here with a Marathon.
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