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PEX modification?
I’m in the process of replacing the bathroom sink faucet in my 1997 Liberty. I’ve got the old faucet out and the new one is in place, but not completely hooked up to the plumbing yet. The cold side was no problem to get finished since the plumbing could flex a little to match up with the new faucet. The hot side on the other hand couldn’t be moved at all because it would hit the P-trap on the drain. I need to shorten the hot side by about 1/4 inch to get it to work. I’ve never worked with this type of plumbing before so I thought I’d make sure that I’d understand things before I tackle the job.
Below is a photo of the type of plumbing that’s found under my sink. Unfortanately, the area I need to shorten is below the water cut off valve, so I’ll have to turn off the water to the bus as a whole to tackle the job. Just want to make sure I understand things before I do that since I could easily mess it up and end up with a bus that has the water completely turned off.
So, as far as I know, I’ll be able to loosen the fittings on each side and then just yank them apart. Cut the tubing to remove about 1/4 inch in length and then press the tubing back onto the fittings and tighten them back up.
Is it that simple? What warnings would you give me before I tackle this project?
The photo below is sideways from its actual orientation.
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7 Replies
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It sounds like you are on the right track. I assume the connections are all compression fittings and may have a flexible seal inside each collar. If so I have in the past removed the compression fitting and on trying to reinstall had difficulty getting a good seal when reconnected. It might be a good idea to have a new fitting available just in case.
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I agree that it sounds like you’re on the right track.
A word of caution…..be careful not to over tighten those fittings as it is not too hard to deform them. Good and snug should be good enough.
If you end up in a jam and need to make a temporary fix to a fitting that just refuses to cooperate, I’ve used a small stainless hose clamp around the outside of the fitting to keep things dry until I could replace it with new.
Good luck…..
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That’s about it. Lowes normally stocks Shark Bite fittings. If you want to buy the crimp tool you can install fittings that up less space. Either way, not a hard job.
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You will have a tough time getting those fittings apart, some are impossible. I cut them out and used Shark Bites along with Pex tubing. I couldn’t get any of mine apart.
The Shark Bite looks like this:
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Don’t be afraid of turning your water pump off and releiving the pressure by draining a little out by the valves in the pump bay. Often working those small plastic valves after they have been unworked for a long time will cause a small drip, drip in the coach, very undesirable!
Good idea to use the shark bite fittings.
When at the plumbing store get a water filter element and change it into the coach. With the pressure being relieved on the system you will easily open the filter canister.
While down in the bay, empty the hot water tank from the bottom. Turn the tank off first so as not to chance the element heating in the dry tank.
JIM
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If those are pushin fittings, getting the pipe out is somewaht easy.
If you will notice on each fitting there is a small collar extending from the fitting, to get the pipe out you have to push in on the collar while pulling the pipe out, other wise it will not come out.
I can see one in your picture just above the brass valve with the black hose going to it. It is the little piece of white plastic protruding from the fitting.
I have used the fittings alot and the pex tubing and they are really easy to work with.
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I think you will find that the fastener your looking at has been backed off and what you are seeing is some threads.
I’ll let someone else with a Liberty correct me, but those bad boys won’t pull apart and I have done a few of them.
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