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  • Oil change time, advice?

    Posted by Charlie on February 5, 2017 at 2:13 pm

    I am about to attempt my first oil change in my ’97 chassis Series 60 engine. Any specific advice or special tricks I should consider?

    I have the XL Maintenance pdf which appears to cover the basics for the oil change.

    One question I have is if folks drain the oil out of the reserve tank periodically. It does not seem this would be necessary, but I am curious if there is any special procedure around that.

    Is there anything to reset in the bus to let it know the oil change was done, perhaps to reset the Detroit Diesel monitor in my dash that alerted me to the usable life of my oil about to expire?

    Archived replied 9 years, 8 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Archived

    Member
    February 5, 2017 at 3:19 pm

    Yes, you can reset the oil change reminder and you can also set your desired interval.

    There is no magic to an oil change, but don’t stop there. The chassis requires a lube every 6200 miles and since that is an odd number and too difficult for me to remember for scheduled work, I just use every 5000 miles for a service interval that includes an oil change, lube of the chassis, checking and draining the air system, fuel filters, oil filters, etc.

    With every oil change I drain the crankcase and when refilling I start with the reservoir. That way the oil in it is only as old as the last oil change. Then I add the rest needed to the crankcase and refill the reservoir.

    Most of the time for my routine service is spent checking things and looking for anything that might indicate a potential issue. I look at everything from hub seal leaks to fluid levels in the hubs, differential, power steering, coolant, windshield washer fluid, and the muffler lube.

    OK, I was kidding about the muffler lube.

    But do look at things like corrosion on the muffler, straps or exhaust tip. Look for wet spots, brake pad and shoe lining thickness, cracks, rubbing hoses, anything loose, look at the inner sides of the tires for damage such as cuts, and in general look for anything loose that should be tight (like steering components) and anything tight that should be loose like slack adjusters.

    It doesn’t matter if you do the work or someone else does it, but what is important is to use the service interval to look at everything and anything. Belts, hoses, clamps, tire pressures (even if you have a TPMS) etc.

  • Chip & Pam

    Member
    February 5, 2017 at 4:53 pm

    “lube the chassis” : are there instructions or diagrams that point out all the lube spots? I assume a typical grease gun works? Type of grease? Any DIY articles on this?

    Thanks, particularly about the simple note re: the oil reservoir process, makes sense to me!

  • Archived

    Member
    February 5, 2017 at 6:01 pm

    should be a lub diagram in your owners manual. If you don’t have one down load it from prevost. there will be 5,000, 25,000, 50,000 and 100K lube points. If you don’t have any records hit them all but go light on the brake pivots etc. One hit is enough on those.

    Any chassis lube will do. Standard grease fitting. Do your self a favor and get an air driven gun.

  • Roy

    Member
    February 6, 2017 at 11:44 am

    I think an air gun for lube is overkill. I actually like to feel resistance increase so I don’t overlube.

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