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Nothing I’ve done has helped
cooling issues!
Added the air deflector/stone guard
Sealed the gap around radiator
New radiator
Added wider fins on radiator grill to catch air
Moved fins to break up air before entering
Added a water myster to inside of radiator grill
recent trip from Florida to Atlanta resulted in higher temps climbing hills
Could not run over 65 mph without running 200+ mostly stayed around 197•
Only way to keep relatively cool was to prop open back engine cover at top about 4-6 inches
exiting off ramps, the temps drop immediately to mid 180’s
Very frustrated!
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11 Replies
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One quick question, do you have a full mud flap across the back end of your bus ?
AL
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No I do not have the full mud flap across the rear! Keep in mind that my bus is a converted passenger bus! It was never a motor home until I bought it and converted it. It’s an 8v92 and thinking about finally selling it ( the bus) to move up to something newer as in 4 stroke!
Ive had it with trying to reinvent the wheel!
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Ace,
Clifford can verify this but is it possible one of your water pumps has started to go bad, as in the impellor has broken or worn fins? I believe you have two water pumps, one for each bank. Get it up to temperature and before it gets much chance to cool shoot the temps in the same spot on each side with an IR gun.
That was a straw I was grabbing at.
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as far as I know there’s only one water pump on an 8v-92 but what do I know!
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Ace; on the 89 with the 8V-92 I had no prob keeping it cool. Even had gen set in engine compartment. I have been watching and thinking and I’m with you sort of puzzled. Mine was a seated coach in the beginning also. Bob
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Bob stumped is an understatement!
i practically live at the bus shop when not working my regular job and have discussed this issue with everyone there and they all know everything I have tried and they too ate stumped!
Short if removing the radiator and having it rodded out, there’s not much else I can try other than a rebuild of the motor but carrying 50+ oil pressure, and no smoke, I hate going that route!
Thinking seriously about removing the air deflector that I fabricated earlier and see if I can’t move the hot air out with fresh!
It was also suggested that pulling a trailer with a seated coach could be sucking the air straight down the sides since it wasnt designed to pull a trailer and not allowing the air to terbulate behind the bus to vacuum the heat out! ??????
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Ace,
Thought you had a new radiator? What you describe sounds like a plugged radiator but since you said new radiator that was ruled out.
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Ace my 91 ran about 190 to 195 last year when it was so danged hot down here in Texas. Drop her off cruise and it would drop to 175 or 80. If I remember right, seen it around 200 a few times. After all you have done and the problem has just started, could something else be starting to give you trouble? Brake drag, bearing failure?
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You mentioned propping the engine doors open made a difference. I installed ventilated (Series 60) engine doors and fluid flap doors on my 1989.
COULD be a water flow restriction problem. As I recall, the water pump is easy to remove and check. Might also be possible at that point to take a look inside the water jacket for general condition. I assume you’ve changed hoses and thermostats and you have the late (9? blade plastic) fan with locked hub. Any chance thermostats are not FULLY opening…stick em in a pot of water.
I regularly saw 205-210 on my 8V92 under extreme use, but that was on hills, hot ambient, and trailering. I had to power back to hold temps. But, alas, the series 60 with DDEC IV is a no-brainer as far as temp control but it runs at almost 210.
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Until and unless my radiator started plugging my 8V92 would run 180-185, all day long up hills whatever speed. To put it in perspective it was low geared so top end was 72 (going downhill with the wind at my back).
As the radiator plugged my temps gradually went from a high of 195 going up the longest, steepest hills on the hottest day, to 200, then 205 and when they hit 210 I recored the radiator. Back down the temps went, never to exceed 195.
The series 60 is a whole nuther animal. It needs to be run hotter. The thermostat cycles between 190 and 195. The first (low) speed fan operation kicks in around 204, and the second (high) speed fan kicks on at 208 so Joel’s numbers are right on. You know the cooling system is working when you can see the temps cycle, but never exceed 210. The same can be said for the 8V92, but the max is 195, and under normal use it will cycle 180 to 185.
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There’s a cover on the back of the water pump that’s held in place with a snap ring. I’d remove the cover and check to see if the water pump impeller is slipping on the shaft.
David Brady, ’02 Blue Bird LXi, NC
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