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Not getting A/C 110 to water heaters
I posted in another thread, after using 12v water heater(Wabasto) when I switch back to 110v water heater, I am not getting 110v at the heat elements. The breaker in the power panel marked Water Heater is on.
when I switch the 110v switch in the bedroom DC panel , I can hear a mechanical “thunk” like a relay coming from the bay with the water pump and water heaters.
Any suggestions on what/where to look ?
Thanks
Jim
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12 Replies
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In the bay with the water heater. See if 110v is getting past the relay.
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I do not see relays in the bay. found a box labeled A/c select under the sink in bedroom, getting 110v in and ot of both relays. There is a junction box in the bay I have not removed the cover yet.
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open the bays and have someone else turn on the heater with 110 and listen for the thunk sound.
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I have a circuit box mounted on the lower heater. Under the cover is a red button that sometimes trips the bottom heater. Push the button for a reset. I ended up cutting a hole in the cover so I can reset without removing the cover.
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I checked the reset before I discovered no voltage,
Don’t have power to the outlet for bay heater either.
Going to run an extension cord to check the bay heater is OK.
search continues.
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Since you have another plug not working, maybe a GFCI tripped. Also, on my
02 H, there was a breaker box in one of the bays for various power sources including all convenience outlets.
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Tom, are gfic’s in series like some mh’s? I know the two in galley are working, so I had not looked for a tripped one.
I checked the convenience panel also.
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I keep reading reliable sources say that GFCIs should NOT be wired in series. GFCI should be first outlet down stream from breaker.
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That might be semantics. Typically a GFCI is the first in a series of outlets, not necessarily wired in series.
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Is there a source for Marathon wiring schematics on line?
Have not tried to call Marathon, still have not found a reason for 110v water heater not getting 110v at the thermostat. The outlet that bay heater is plugged in is labeled “Bay Heat” “Switched outlet” does not have voltage also.
That indicates to me when “heat is selected for cruise air(s) it would be selected also?
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I FOUND THE PROBLEM
Loose wire at circuit breaker, picture is fuzzy but that is arc burn on wire and breaker contact.
Learned something today, did not know these are “switch control breakers” now going to look for some spares.
Thanks for the help/
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No diagrams from Marathon Jim, I’ve tried many times in order to try and trace a problem.
I also can’t get any pneumatic diagram, trying to find the source of a marathon aux leak somewhere in the house and you just have to start taking things apart. I talked to Coburg on Friday and was told look here, look there, but there are no drawings. Frustrating….
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