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Microflush LG 220
Posted by glen on September 22, 2013 at 4:26 pmDC electric. Not holding water in bowl. Gonna order and replace flapper and o rings. Has anybody done this project? What to look for. Everything else is working. Is Wax ring just plain ole model like house models?
Peter replied 12 years, 11 months ago 9 Members · 8 Replies -
8 Replies
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Same wax ring as the home version. I rebuilt 2 of the DC Microphors and the best way is to remove it and do the work out of the bus. I rigged up a water connection, placed the toilet on a wood platform between two saw horses with a bucket underneath to catch the dump water. Hopefully yours will just be the flapper seal, neither of mine were that easy. Hardest thing was to get the proper tension on the flapper with the linkage. I also had to replace one hopper. You may be able to replace the flapper seal in place, I never tried it because I had bigger issues. Parts are expensive.
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Thanks Tom. Gonna call the folks tomorrow and see what I need and give it a try. Wish there was somebody close and would let them do it but have the shop now and all the tools I need. I guess it’s time to start working on this puppy myself!
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Do you have to set anything back up if you pull hopper off to replace flapper gasket and if you do , is there more gaskets you need. Called Microphor and they just sold me a sick on gasket and a small tube of silicone. No way to replace though hole which is what they said i could do. Bought me a wax ring gasket just in case. Gonna try in the next day or two.
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I also have a Microphore toilet. I did use the stick on seal and so far ( six months) so good. I have had the toilet rebuilt by Microphore (5 years ago) and I have done it. Frankly happier with the work that I did ( solved all of the leak problems). Be aware that if you flush it with low air pressure it can cycle through the flush cycle to the point where the flapper is closed but the water to the bowl may not turn off. It is the last thing in the cycle ( managed by air) and if it does not turn off the toilet will overflow ( albeit with clean water). I built a dedicated air system just for the toilet and installed a blue, lit, blinking pressure gauge next to it so that it is hard norton see the air pressure before flushing.
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Thanks Chuck. I have the (electric) dc model. haven’t done anything yet but have the gasket. Did you pull the toilet out and do you have to dismantle hopper to install just gasket? That’s a mighty small hole there to get in to.
glen
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I did not pull the toilet to install the gasket ( although I have had it out several times to work on it. To install the gasket I just bled off all of the pressure so the flapper was open, wiped it down very good to insure it was absolutly dry, pealed the plastic cover off of the gasket and installed it. Once installed it brought the air pressure up so there was pressure on the flapper and gasket and let it sit for a day or so before I let it get wet.
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My Microfore (sp) is a elec only unit and recently due to “potty smell) changed the wax flange seal to a foam type when I noticed an uneveness of wax when I pulled the toilet. Water level is steady after a flush for days, and I pulled the black tank and went over every conceivable point of vapor escape which all checked perfect. Since this was an ongoing thing, elected to do the whole thing to end our “whew” factor. Now, gotta take another trip to test the results. Has anyone else used the foam ring on the toilet flange? Ed Mulhanny suggested this. I have done a few wax seals in homes before and never had an issue. The uneveness suggested to me that the wax had become slightly uneven and with movement of the bus may have allowed the odorous vapors to enter.
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I have worked on mine several times.
The toilet is very hard to move to the outside of the bus to work on it because of its weight so be careful. When you remove the hopper and clean everything and install the new gasket and get ready to re-install the hopper, just go ahead and silicon the hopper to the bowl. Trying to use the two small threaded tension rods to secure the hopper to the bowl and have no leaks is almost impossible. The two rods only take a few inch pounds of torque and I could not get it to stop leaking. Kept tightening and finally broke the slots molded into the bowl that holds the rods.
Also you can get an all rubber flange that takes the place of the wax ring. Much cleaner to work with.
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