[Dick]

Those manifolds have the same issue as individual push in DOT fittings in that over time they leak. I am gradually replacing every push in fitting, starting with house and Prevost manifolds, including adding shut off valves, all with compression fittings.

That one contains most of the converter air curcuits.

It is hard to see from the photo, but I replaced both the horizontal and vertical push in manifolds on the Prevost side of the pneumatic system. Not shown are either of the two solenoid valves that shut off air to both of them when the key is off.

Barely visible at the bottom of the manifold for the Prevost systems just lower left from the side marker lights is a solenoid valve I added which closes when the key is off. Now all Prevost manifold air circuits are closed with the key is off except for slide seals. All house sir systems have pressure with the key off.

I still have a few air curcuits unidentified and not yet provided with shut off valves, but when done I will have all compression fittings, and the ability to turn off and isolate every individual circuit so I can chase air leaks easier.

[Dick]

Jon,

Any suggestions for a quick temporary fix. My compressor is running almost all the time and it’s that darn Tee. I’ve tried to get it out by pushing on the brass part but it won’t budge. I’m worried if I yank it out it will ruin the entire manifold.

For the permenant fix – did you use the existing tubing? The tubing looks short to fit into a new manifold? They have this manifold tucked up close to the top behind a bunch of stuff. It’s tough to get there.

[Archived]

Dick,

Did you try draining air pressure before trying to remove the plug? If you get it out, you could put a 1/4″ short piece of air line into the plugged port, and then rig up a compression fitting with a plug on the end to do the same thing.

[Archived]

Jerry,

I tried draining the system. I already have a capped off tube that will fit in, if I can get the tee out of thre without ruining the entire manifold.

[Archived]

Dick, only other advise I could give besides replacing the manifold is, try a small open end wrench, and slip it over the plug, and use the wrench to help you press the brass ring, while pulling/pushing the T plug.

[Ted]

Jerry is on the right track, if you can compress the ring with an open end wrench the T should come out, they’re a bitch sometimes. I have also done what Jerry suggested to cap off a piece of tubing.

[Bill]

Replace the hole manifold you can get them from Prevost or put in what Jon and I put in with new manifolds and comp fittings, by the way that is the wrong plug for that manifold that’s why it’s hard to get out

[Peter]

hears the fitting that goes in there

[Fred F.]

I cut all the hoses to have new ends for the manifold I used. They are long enough.

What is holding the Tee is a metal “gripper” that resists moving the Tee out of there as long as the brass ring is not pushed in. But I wouldn’t bet removing the Tee and replacing it with the correct plug will cure the problem because the rubber O ring may have been damaged.

Have you tried hammering the Tee deeper to see if that temporarily slows the leak while you await a new manifold?

The ultimate solution is to change manifolds and fittings and use compression fittings plus shutoff valves.

[Archived]

I’ll try the open end wrench first – should have thought of that. Then I’ll try the hammer, but I’m not hopeful on that. Both converters pushed the tee back in further and that stopped the leak until they left. It’s mounted in the worst area for accessibility.

[Archived]

It is likely NOT the manifold, but the plug. I had some in my Legendary, and a couple leaked slightly. I bought some online and replaced them. The original ones were scuffed up in the sealing area. The new ones did not leak after they were installed.

They should come out, there is nothing different in their installation than a hose.