[Archived]

Darrell,

I would like to better understand how many miles and gallons were used prior to the ugly fix to calculate your mileage and how many miles and gallons after its installation were used to arrive at the difference.

My base line mileage of 5.9 prior to the installation was based on over 10,000 miles of driving and refueling. The first block of miles and refueling after the ugly fix was another 10,000 miles. The extended periods for data gathering were because shorter periods will not yield accurate results. Our coaches are sensistive to a lot of factors that impact mileage. A single tank evaluation is easily skewed if the coach had a lower average driving speed, tailwinds, flat ground, no toad, no use of A/C, etc.

For my data I have driven at a steady 61/62 mph, on a wide variety of roads that contain flat as well as hilly sections and almost always towing, and almost always using the OTR. The long distance and multiple refuelings average out all the factors.

The message center or pro-driver values are pretty consistent and are either consistently correct or consistently wrong, but will only reflect the period between resetting.

[Archived]

Karl,

An EGR engine oil tends to blacken quickly. I change oil every 5000 miles and with the EGR functional within a few miles such as 2000 miles or therabouts the oil had gotten black. With the EGR non functional it retains the lighter more golden color for most if not all the 5000 miles.

[Dale]

Jon;

Why do you charge oil so frequently? My owner’s manual says 15,000 miles or annually.

[Archived]

Jon Like I said, it was the reading from the message display in the dash, two years it stayed at 5.9 mpg now it will stay around 7 mpg towing on both readings, i can’t say with proof but something has changed, this is running around 66 to 70 mph towing a Equinox, if I tow hd 2500 duramax chevy truck it will fall to around 6.6 mpg Darrell

[Herb]

I change oil at 5000 miles because I am going under the coach then. Lubes are specified at 6200, but it is easier for me to do them at any time the odometer is at a 5000 mile number. Compared to the real cost of operating the bus oil at 5000 miles is cheap so I just do it at that time.

[Corey]

I do it at 5000 miles to keep the oil cleaner, and the additives fresher. Should prolong the life of the engine since mine it EGR. Oil is cheaper than engines!

[Tim]

Are you guys changing all the filters too at 5000 miles , two oil filters and two fuel filters???

[AL]

For me, fuel and oil filters. I monitor the air cleaner with a gauge and it gets changed after a couple of years.

[Bernie]

Yep. Both oil and both fuel filters get changed out then too.

[Archived]

I do the same thing and I do the air filter just me not saying to change it

[Archived]

I used to do that also Peter but I started measuring restriction 20 years ago with a gauge and the pressure drop across the air filter doesn’t begin to move the needle for 30,000 miles or so, depending on air conditions. I change mine when this gauge begins to show some movement,

[Peter]

Yes that’s a good idea Jon , I am in some dusty conditions so I just change it

[Peter]

I knew I wanted to take care of my first Prevost the right way. I found it, spent two days going over the systems and had a pre-inspection done. All looked good. First thing was a stop at Jeff’s. New Norgrens, airbags, fluids and filters, generator service, Webastco service, new aux air tank…..Done. Next, new shocks with Koni’s on the front…..Done. Last would be brake cylinders and I would be pretty much there. Little did I suspect I needed to zero out the engine LOL!

Was at DD today to see the progress and weep. The summary so far (that I can remember)

1. new head and gasket
2. new sleeves
3. Counter bore all cylinders
4. New Pistons rings etc
5. Machine the block
6. New bearings all around
7. New injectors (since it’s open and the cost to pull the engine alone is $2-3000 if one is bad)
8. New A/C compressor (Large dye stain. I had been having frequent A/C light on the dash)
9. New belts and hoses (get everything new at the same time)
10. Replace the “blue” turbo hoses with high temp red
11. All new fluids, told me today that they would make sure it had all new coolant. How generous

All this for a cool almost $20,000! I’d love to get rid of the damn thing but now I figure I essentially have an almost new rebuilt engine…..the ultimate zero out. At least I am seeing the end in sight. Peter, your advice when I met you at Jeff’s last fall rings true. Take the time and money to get your coach up to snuff and then keep it in top shape. Then you will know what you have rather than starting another unknown project with another coach.

Sorry for the rant, just frustrated and a little lighter in the wallet than I had expected after trying to be very detailed about the pre-purchase eval. I’m going to teach the part of the next seminar titled, “What? Are you %#^* me!” haha

I’ll upload a few pictures from today when I figure it out. As usual thanks to Jeff for his advice and help.

Chris

[Archived]

Chris, it sounds as if you didn’t have bad luck, you would have no luck at all.

I am sorry to hear of your issues because as you can see from our tens of thousands of posts, engine issues are almost unheard of. What would be most instructive would be an opinion from the Detroit dealer as to what happened. If there is any way the dealer can share with you what caused the problem we all might benefit, especially if the cause relates to something we as owners can influence.

[tom]

That’s a sad deal, you did everything right and still ended up with a nightmare.

FWIF Chris, as time goes on and you keep the bus, the 20K will be a distant memory, although painful and you’ll get years of enjoyment out of the bus. In the long run, that fresh rebuild may be a big plus when the time comes to part with the bus.

Hoping to brighten your day a little… Jon and I have decided to forward the dues we collect for the next 6 months to help ease the pain. As you can see, your PC buddies are shoulder to shoulder with you.:)