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  • Long crank, no start

    Posted by Ronald on March 5, 2018 at 10:30 am

    Every couple of weeks I make over to check on my coach. Yesterday I noticed the generator battery was dead so I went to NAPA and replaced it. Easy enough to do. I know this does not have anything to do with my question below.

    I wanted to take her out to fill up since it is at 1/2 tank, and to give her an hour of exercise. I go to start and it does is crank but does not start. This is the first time this has ever happened. I was worried about drawing the batteries down so I stopped trying to get her to start after three attempts.

    I did not notice anything different than any previous start attempt. All of the gauges cycle and as soon as they finish I give it a start. Nothing but a long crank and no start. I watched the dash closely. Only thing I see different is a light comes on after a few seconds of cranking. Picture is attached.

    PM if you want to discuss. If you PM me and would rather discuss via telephone, let me know and I will provide my cell number.

    Ron

    Archived replied 8 years, 6 months ago 9 Members · 12 Replies
  • 12 Replies
  • Bernard

    Member
    March 5, 2018 at 10:54 am

    RON, Check your radiator fill tank. Could be low on coolant.

  • Art

    Member
    March 5, 2018 at 11:00 am

    You could see what code is making the ‘Check Engine’ light come on with the ‘Stop Engine Override’ switch. Copied from another site…

    A. Turn the ignition key to the start position, but do not start the coach.
    B. Immediately to the right of the ignition key is the red engine override switch. Press it once and release.
    C. This will begin the DDEC diagnostic. A code is interpreted by a series of flashes. The red stop engine light will show you active codes. The yellow check engine light will show you historical codes. All codes have two digits. So, after you follow the steps above you see the red light flash two times quickly followed by a brief pause and the five quick flashes again that would be equal to code 25. The diagnostic tool will progress through all active codes (red) first and then show all historical codes (yellow). This can be very valuable at helping to narrow the possibilities of what is going on when you are stranded.

  • Dan

    Member
    March 5, 2018 at 1:20 pm

    Also on gen batt I’m using a red top Optima battery also I instaled a Trik-L-Start right on the solenoid between house batt and gen batt so when the house batts are charging the gen batt charges, so gen batt is always charged

  • Ronald

    Member
    March 5, 2018 at 1:38 pm

    In case nobody has yet figured it out I am opposed to any kind of battery maintainer except for inverters for the house.

    If you have to keep a small charger, battery maintainer or trickle charger on the chassis or generator batteries you either have a bad battery or you are masking a problem that is drawing down your batteries.

    Small external chargers left on batteries continuously have killed a lot of member’s batteries for a wide variety of reasons.

  • Ronald

    Member
    March 5, 2018 at 2:25 pm

    Just removed all the added AUX battery charger and wiring from a friends Marathon which some genius hooked up to maintain house batteries.

    Be aware if you start your bus and DID NOT disconnect the little battery charger…your in trouble and in this case start looking for a new Vanner isolator @ $300 bucks.

    What was needed were 4 new starting batteries…..took out the 6 year old ones before the explosion and fire.

    AL

  • Walter

    Member
    March 5, 2018 at 3:29 pm

    Thanks. I will do that. This is the first time I have ever had this arise. She normally starts on the first turn of the key so I am quite surprised.

  • Archived

    Member
    March 5, 2018 at 3:30 pm

    The gen battery was due for replacement. I replaced the battery with the same model NAPA 7565 N “The Legend” battery.

  • Andy

    Member
    March 8, 2018 at 10:45 am

    My last 2 coaches I have used the Trik-L-Start on them, Foretravel when you were plugged in the Chassis batteries did not charge so when I started engine after sitting for a while it sounded slugish after installing the DC charger it fired up great, when I sold it chassis batteries tested great after almost 8 years, The Prevost sitting a lot of the time gen sounded slugish and now plugged in gen battery sits at around 13.4 volts and cranks great. In the winter the batteries don’t like the cold. Also the Trik-L-Start is a no brainer when you un plug your coach it disconnects its self .

  • Archived

    Member
    March 8, 2018 at 8:19 pm

    On my 91 8V92TA when the coolant was low (one time years ago after first buying) it would start but die shortly after but it did start. Think maybe fuel issue? Never had a no start and crank issue or haven’t yet.

  • Craig

    Member
    March 9, 2018 at 2:38 pm

    She turned over just fine this morning. I plan to run her throughout the weekend to give her some exercise. I will check the Surge Tank for coolant just to be sure she is topped off. Advice on coolant to use and whether I can get it a NAPA is appreciated.

    Ron

  • Ed

    Member
    March 9, 2018 at 8:39 pm
  • Archived

    Member
    March 10, 2018 at 9:14 am

    Above post mentioned the “sound sluggish” when you first start your engine and / or generator.

    With the normal first rotation of any diesel engine it will experience some hesitation. Diesels start running when the compression explodes diesel fuel as a mist injected into each cylinder. Along with resistance of 10 gallons of oil at temperature of your surroundings. It’s normal to see a black puff from the exhaust pipe on the start.

    Prevost does install on every engine a block heater to warm up your engine block, engine coolant and oil.

    Rather then risk problems with adding small battery chargers which over time fail or owners fail to turn them off prior start should consider using the Prevost factory installed block heater.

    FWIW….AL

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