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Line Voltage
Posted by Dan on June 29, 2015 at 10:29 amIn the control panel, the top LED display is called line voltage. The one on the left as you look at it is called line 1 and it shows 120 volts. But the one on the right is now showing only 95 volts and is called line 2. This line 2 has over time, say 2 years, slowly shown less and less voltage. So I’m looking for some ideas as to what is happening. My intuition is that some connection has degraded such that all the voltage is unable to get through that connection. I have not started testing yet, but will unplug shore power and multimeter the two legs in the shore power cord, also start the genny and see if line 2 comes up to about 120 volts. Lookin for some ideas.
Per replied 11 years, 2 months ago 7 Members · 10 Replies -
10 Replies
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uaually a bad connection (loose) or breaker that has loss tension over time. The shore cords also deteriate over time where wires are connected. I even had one that the ground failed and reaked havock on systems. 1 ck cord 2 breakers and connection of wires too them. That is a start.
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When you have voltage diferenials like you mention it can be resistance at a connection. Shore power cord connection, connection in the transfer switch, bad breaker.
As voltage drops do you see an increas in AMPs. A bad connection will usually increase the amp draw and create a heat build up as well.
If you have not been tripping any breakers from low voltage or amp draw, you may just have a faulty gauge.
Check when generator is running, if that makes the problem go away then I would look a shower power plug, connection at transfer switch or connection at the inverter for that leg. If all your power goes through the inverter regardless of power connection as some do that might be your issue. My generator is not a true 220 volt so if I have a bunch of stuff on one leg on then the other will go up as the required voltage to run every thing is going down.
Some times you will see a difference in line voltage if you are on generator and one leg is loaded up with usage, A/C’s, cooktop or hot water heater all on at one time.
You could have an appliance on that leg drawing too much current. If everything checks out and the problem is still there try turning on or off each appliance tied to that leg and see what happens.
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Voltages with shore power remain at 120 on line 1 and 95 on line 2. Disconnected shore power cord and tested each leg at the bus end of the cord. They were both 120 volts. Momentarily while on inverter, line 1 went to 104 volts and line 2 went to 74 volts. Started genny, voltages came up to 120 on leg 1 and 95 on leg 2, same as when on shore power.
The bus has been sitting at home for the last three months, inside, plugged in, with no loads. We are going to run Chicago Denver Chicago starting Wednesday.
I guess the next step is to check breakers behind the panel. Where is the master change over switch. Is it behind that same panel? I presume that any loads on line 2 will be destroyed at 95 volts. The only load I have now turned on is the frig and it seems to be drawing from line 1 and is working based on temps inside it.
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You might better call the inverter service guys that advertise on the site or Liberty.
Good Luck
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So the campground in Denver where we were going just called to say their infrastructure was flooded out and we can cancel for a full refund. We did. Now the bus is going to sit until 9-20-15 when we go to Jeff’s and on to Sevierville. Voltage is now on the list, hope he can figure it out. Thanks for all the input.
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Dan,
I think you have an inverter problem. I had a similiar problem with my Liberty and the solution was to change out the inverter. I got lucky and found a pair of take off’s from a fellow PC member and changed it out and that solved the pooblem. Your’s are probably 2500 Hearts, black in color.
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I am headed to Denver next week. What campground flooded out?
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Alan, it is Chatfield state park located in the southwest part of the metro area with a Littleton mailing address.
Thank you Tom, you are right on all counts, I do have the black heart 2500’s original, and I was kinda thinking that at reaching 21 years (adulthood), they’re about done. If I have to buy a new one, I’ll buy two. In my research, it seems the go to unit would be the Outback VFX2524, where V= ventilated and 25=2500 watts and 24=24 volts.
Does anyone have experience here to know whether these are the best?
Also, does any body have experience as to whether Jeff is the guy to diagnose and repair or replace? I’m going there any way pretty soon.
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Just spoke to Bill at Liberty-Chicago. He had me do a test that confirmed that the volt meter on line 2 was bad, reading 95 volts while the outlets in the kitchen and bathroom that are supplied voltage by line 2 measured 117.6 volts. So they are sending me a new voltmeter.
For future reference ( my vintage of course), the top 4 breaker switches out of the 8 in the lower left quadrant of the control panel are on line 1, and the lower 4 switches are on line 2. These are the only breaker switches that can get power from the inverter.
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Step one regarding any reading we get that indicates a problem such as a warning light, voltage reading, temperature, etc. is to verify we are being told correct information.
Electric readings are the easiest to verify.
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