[Archived]

Update: The plan this morning is to remove the problem blind. It happens to be blind number 4 which is the closest window blind to the front of the coach on the passenger side. I will test the leads with my volt meter. I will also test the 12v DC motor using a separate power supply which I have in my shop. If the motor works, then I will remove the Front TV, where all the wire leads for the blinds are located and which I surmise then go to the Liberty punch button panel. My question is….is each blind protected by their own individual fuse? If it is a fuse then thats an easy fix.

However if it is not a fuse issue the problem may be the punch button panel. Can this panel be (A) removed and how, (B) replaced and or (C) rewired to have blind 4 work from say punch button 8,9 or 10 which are unused.

The attached photo shows the punch button panel which looks like a Calculator.

Thanks for you help.

[Dick]

Ok here is the news….not sure anyone is listening but here goes.

Power from the Liberty punch button keyboard to the blind is good. I bench test the blind motor with a separate 12v DC power supply and the motor is dead…..sounds like the motor is the issue.

This motor made by Amsource 2000 is no longer available. I checked eBay and nothing there either. Sooooo in the off chance that someone on this forum may have an old operating unit they are willing to sell I would gladly offer to purchase it.

Thanks….

[Archived]

My 2000 blinds are Hunter Douglas 24V. Are you positive yours are 12V? David

[Gerald]

Pretty sure it’s 12v dc as the coach is a Liberty Classic and as I understand all the house systems are 12v. The volt meter of my tester indicated 12v dc from the leads to the blind motor. The motor itself says 12 – 24v dc. I will pull the motor apart and clean the stator, commutators and rotar. If the windings are damaged I will rewind.

[John]

I would not assume the blinds are DC power. My 97 had 120V motorized blinds.

[Archived]

Mine are hunter douglas 24 volt I have extra ones

[Allan]

Marathon and Liberty. Two different converters and different ways to accomplish the same result.

[Loc]

Update: I took the blind to the Hunter Douglas distributor yesterday afternoon and although they cannot repair the eclectic motor nor have a replacement they agreed to disassemble the blind and remove the electric motor. In turn I will have the electric motor repaired which I suspect is dirty due to the usual oxidation process or the brushes are not making contact to the rotor. I do not think the windings are damaged, but even so, if they are, the motor can be rewound. It’s just the usual PITA job.

[Bruce]

A little more to this saga. After having been told by the Hunter Douglas people that they would remove the electric motor from my blind they called me and changed their mind. They said my blind was too old to work on and more to the point they did not want to damage it. They gave me the name of another blind shop that might work on my blind. I visited the shop yesterday morning and they declined to work on it. So it was up to me to pull the electric motor out. It is a challenge to do but I managed to pull the electric motor out and in the process discovered the problem…..one of the leads had become disconnected hence the blind did not work. A quick solder repair and putting everything back together and I am happy to report all is fine. The trick to reassemble the motor is to ensure the gear housings at each end lines up and the two blind spindles are wound tight…not too tight but at least even with each other so that the blind is level and not crooked.

Here are some photos.

[Chad]

What the power verdict? 12VDC, 24VDC, or 120VAC.

I have an inop blind on the front passenger windshield that I tear into and hope my fix will be as easy as your’s!

---

1984 96" with 8V92TA

(remodeled Liberty Coach)

Greenwood, MO

[John]

12v dc powers the motor in my case.

[Archived]

And, if you need to replace broken lift strings, actually “tape” here is a source of the right stuff (it’s a grimbly job, but not too difficult – need a big flat work surface and a thin straight wire rod to push/pull the tape through all the holes in the blind 1/16″ stainless mig rod works well, tape or superglue the “tape” to the rod and pull through):

Company: Blind Parts NW
Email: support@blindrepairshop.com
Phone: 800-737-3219

========== ORDER INFORMATION ==========

Product Name: Used to attach bottom of lift tape to bottom rail
of Easy Rise Systems
Item#: LTBR/PLG
Unit Price: $1.45
Quantity: 2
Shipping Method: USPS Parcel Post

Product Name: asy Rise Tape (1/8 Wide Flat String Tape)
* SELECT ROLL LENGTH : 25 Yard Roll
Item#: 1/8 Wide Flat String Tape25 Yard
Unit Price: $300
Quantity: 1
Shipping Method: USPS Parcel Post

Shipping & Handling: $50

[Archived]

I didn’t have to restring a blind in the bedroom, but I did manage to reattach the tape to the top ‘spindle’ and level the blind.

I do have a question however. The blind motor says it is 12-24 volts. When I tested the leads from the wall, they showed -38v when opening and 38v when closing. The same was true for a salon blind, so I assume it is correct. I’m obviously not an electrical expert, but I am scratching my head.

[Bernie]

Not window blinds but along the same line- my closet door motor failed. I contacted the original supplier and the motor has been discountinued. The original supplier was the The Right Track from Maryland – made the track and motor – this is a double sliding door – any suggestions from anyone would be appreciated. I asked the Right Track folks for help in finding a suitable upgraded replacement and no results yet.

thanks

[Archived]

Roger,

Time to trade.