[Archived]

For all finishes there are standards which define the characteristics of the final result. Those standards define the ability of the finish to resist adhesion failures (cross hatch test), denting loss of adhesion, bending, hardness, and UV resistance.

In a factory environment after test panels were cured we subjected representative samples of the finishes we were applying to products to a wide variety of tests to insure we met the standards. Those panels were usually testing physical characteristics such as hardness, adhesion, resistance to scratching, etc. We relied on the supplier to provide finishes that met the requirements for gloss, application thickness and UV protection.

So I would suggest if you have any concerns about the product for your roof application and its suitability that you contact the manufacturer and ask if it is appropriate for your purposes, and if not what product would be suitable. Like our coaches our finishes are a compromise and all the folks that apply our finishes can do is select one that meets almost all the needs because there is no single product that is likely to give you all the performance you would like.

[Archived]

Jon,

You sure you were not an attorney, or what did you just say, call the manufacturer?

My coach was painted by John Stahr, not sure how many other CC’s he painted but he did mine when it was built. He used Sikkens paints, I have all the codes. I maintain in stock most of the colors used on my bus, acquired before Sikkens went to mostly water born paints. No, I do not have any Sikkens clear but that is a non event, they will all work; my question was to what degree. This clear on the lid (save the metal part) has lasted 12 plus years, I would like to re spray with the same or better durability. I have decided on the high solids (thicker) paint. I am now debating the addition of a flex agent, but, with the hardener I am not sure.

It is still way too cold here to paint so I thought I would solicit input……….

Thanks

[Rod]

I like watching gamblers at work. Especially those that are willing to risk they know more than the guy that actually made the product. For the effort you are going to with the prep work, and the amount of work involved if your choice (modified as you might decide) prematurely fails I suspect a short phone call to the folks that make the products might give you some insight as to what product you might want to use of the two you have, or better yet, one on the shelf that might be even better.

I don’t have a law degree, but after seeing $80,000 in finished parts in a dumpster because the finish failed I have a deep respect for the nuances of the various formulations. In your case you are asking a finish to adhere and tolerate heat and UV exposure. You don’t care about abrasion resistance, or ability to adhere if the surface is bent over a mandrel, or it will resist scratching such as from a 2H pencil test. You want it to stick and you do not want it to “chalk”. It will be worth the advice you get from the people who formulate the products.

If you were slopping some paint on a rusty engine block I would heartily endorse the cheap oil based enamels on paints from Tractor Supply. But you are in a whole different league in what you are doing.

[John]

John, I suspect the skill of the artisan and the conditions under which the fiish is applied, will have a significant effect on the final result.

JIM

[Hector]

Are you guys about done? Napa has a spray can…

[John]

John,

After the OAT returns to normal. Assuming a decent prep and thinner or prepsol wipe-down. Use your favorite gun, HP (40 psi} or HVLP (30 psi) and go to it with the high solids clear. I can’t imagine you don’t have some good gun experience. Don’t be timid git’ er done. A tack and two wets should do it. A little sag or dust isn’t going to ruin a roof job. “Gear down…no go-around:” And oh-yeah….good luck!

[John]

Good point Brian , about ten years ago i redid a 55 belair ,,,, frame off , you know who has seen under it since ? me ,

[Rod]

Thanks for the input everyone! Painting, In this case “clearing” a panel is not difficult; in fact I will go so far as to say that painting, save the trick airbrush stuff, is not difficult at all. Back in the day, if one screwed up the job while shooting lacquer, it could be fixed in 15 minutes due to the rapid dry time; with these newer paints it takes a bit longer however one can always sand and buff these finishes, nearly all of them, in a few days time provided there is enough material to work with. Properly applied the above should not be required however, it is an option that is available with these new paints.

I will admit that I have painted before, aside from fences and walls with a roller, so I do not consider squirting the bus a gamble. There have been but two problems that appeared in my recent work, those being fish eyes, which are caused by silicone in all of its forms and off brand masking tape. I think they are behind me now but for the fish eyes I wash, scrub then apply numerous wipe downs with a surface solvent (Preps-Sol), and I will only use 3M green painting tape designed for use with these paints, actually the solvents in the paints. You have to look inside the roll to make certain its 3M as there is a lot of green tape out there.

We have all heard about the prep being the most important part of painting,…cleaning, maybe a bit of putty, sanding and masking and I certainly will not argue that point. Further, I cannot argue the quality of automotive paints, as I really think that they are all pretty much the same; the cheaper paints having more solvents and thus may require more applications to get the desired coverage but that’s about all I have noticed: this in large part due to the EPA sticking its beek into the allowed ingredients in all paint. California has gone so far as to prohibit all but water born (water based) without literally millions in special “anti-smog” equipment so nearly every paint shop is now in the neo-latex business.

[Chris]

Add some fisheye preventer to the paint.

JIM

[Tom]

Well, its finished! Went at the failed clearcoat spots and found that the base had failed or was failing as well! Attacked the whole thing with a DA on 400 paper, still some areas that needed help. Cleaned everything and applied a coat of primer surfacer to fill the minor blems that would take forever to wet sand; caution here, I have been down this road before. The high solids primer surfacers need to be topped with a sealer, a primer sealer or a two part primer otherwise theres a chance that the solvents in the color coat may lift the surfacer. Additionally, the primer sealer was laid down over the old failing paint just to keep it from lifting underneath, as a precaution. Next came the base coat to cover followed an hour later with the clear. No sags at all but a bit of orange peel in the top coat most likely caused by using the fastest reducer I could buy because I was painting outside;I will remove that in a few days with 2000 paper wet sand and follow with a buffing with compound.

Now the question, was it difficult…NO. Was it time consuming, yes. Compared to changing the air bags, this type of repair is a walk in the park, at least for me….plus I didn’t have to crawl under the beast. Everyone should take a shot (no pun intended) at spray painting and not with a rattle can, a few hundred dollars worth of equipment and you are in business. Start out by giving your garbage cans a new look, then move up to say your tow bar or lawn mower.

My best guess is that the paint will fail on the top of your coach at somewhere around 10 years, maybe a little longer if you wax up there say each year. You have, as I see it, four options. You can sell it, you can ignore it (not recommended) you can have it repainted or you can repaint it yourself. Now whilst many will consider this a quantum leap from changing a say Norgen Valve, it really is not. I am not suggesting by any means that you should give your entire coach a re-spray, but you can certainly do the touch up’s…top, below the rub rails (on the rivited ones), etc.

[Peter]

Hey Fly man,

Reading this post begs the question – apparently the TapeCoat failed? Talk to me about that as you might remember I applied that to my bus and you bought my excess….

[Bob]

Responding to my own question, I found the thread where you discuss the TapeCoat failure. I will have a look at mine this weekend. The good news is I don’t allow anyone on the roof. As of last summer, it was holding up well with the exception of one small spot……

[Archived]

Gordon,

Glad you found it! I have had guys wash this coach for many moons, including a few truck washes and am quite certain that the pressure washer at the wrong angle was the perp! I still recall ruining a perfectly decent large redwood deck with one many moons ago when they first became popular…..when I finished the deck had a beard………..ugghhh!

John

[JIM]

John didn’t paint your coach he was a designer Mike Wilson or JC Moody probably painted it check with one of those guys @www.willyscustomconcepts.net or 541-501-1337 bet they can help with some good advice for you

Last I heard Mike had sold out to Moody so he may not be there now

good luck