[Archived]

A Low Antifreeze Level will make both lights come on.Sometimes mine would just stay on for 30 seconds or so then go back off while driving. On a cold Startup of the S 60 They both would come on and stay on until the engine come up to operating Temp. Then they would go off. Due Antifreeze being a couple Gallons low.

[Deleted User]

checked antifreeze and it’s full. just going to ry and get it home and get it checked out.

Thanks!

0

[Dan]

Fan clutch/fan belt/belt tensioners. Less likely would be thermostat, clogged radiator, etc.

[Archived]

Failing coolant level sensor.

[Archived]

Step number one is to verify what the system is trying to tell you.

If the alert is hight temp, see what the temperature gauge says. If it is high shut down ASAP. If the alert is coolant level shut down ASAP and check it. A stop engine light is going to shut you down and you do not want to wait for that to happen. You should shut down while you still have control.

If the alert is correct fix the problem. Our coaches do not repair themselves and to press on thinking the problem will go away could cost you the price of an engine.

But if the alert is not accurate you can do some things to make the alert go away, such as using a paper clip as a jumper across the low level coolant sensor pins. I the problem is overheating which is a real problem it might be the fan clutch which can be locked until the clutch repaired or replaced.

Regardless make sure you start by correctly diagnosing what you are dealing with and then once you know that steps can be taken to fix or bypass the problem to get you home.

[Archived]

It does sound like a low coolant warning. The fan on most of these units does not come on till 220 degrees, unless the dash AC is on. Was the dash AC ruinning when the alarm came on? Some folks have had luck removing the coolant sensor and cleaning it with a scrubby pad and reinstalling. Also, does it only occur during acceleration, decelleration or turning, if so it is an indication of the coolant moving away from the sensor.

Let us know what you find.

[Archived]

Just noticed the year of yuor coach. You may have a mechanical fan clutch. If so check it for proper operation.

[Allan]

Papa has a two speed electrical clutch. His low speed will come on at 204 and the high speed at 208.

He can see the operation on the coolant temp gauge with level ground operation usually having coolant temp cycle up to 204 and then drop back. Under heavy loads such as hills or high speed driving it will cycle up to 208 and then fall back.

If the clutch is failing to engage temps will climb, a clue the fan clutch is not engaging. It can be locked mechanically or electrically. Locking the clutch electronically is preferred. I believe for the XL relays 78 and 79 are for the fan clutch. Verify that with the label on the engine doors.

Break off tab 85 on the relay(s) and the clutch should be locked if the problem is overheating. If the problem is a low coolant sensor jump between the two terminals in the connector.

[Brett]

Sorry for the absence of a reply, I just now saw the responses. I’ve made it home with only two or three more episodes,which had Temps all over the place. One said high temp @208, while the analog Guage was reading 195. I talked to I believe “Randy” @ American Fleet and he was under the impression that with the Temps on the gauges being the same, it was likely the temp sensor was flaking out, that was also the same thing the guys@ Clarke Diesel thought.

I’m going to replace the sensor and check the wiring from the connector to where it terminates. Hopefully that will fix the problem. The fan was functioning, because the temp on the analog guage would never get any higher than it ever had, before the fan would kick in and reduce the temp below 195. The AC was not running, which usually causes the temp to run cooler, or at least that is what I believe I remember from last season.

Anyway thanks for the input, it’s great to know that this level of help is out here…

[Archived]

Andre, I assume your coach has driver’s air only and not the Prevost whole coach AC. That means when you engage the driver’s AC your radiator fan is locked on and temperature control for your engine is the engine thermostat. That will keep your engine temp at or below about 195. That is why you will see lower engine operating temps when the AC is operating. When not using AC the engine temps will run higher because the fan clutch should be disengaged until it hits 204, and the high speed will not be engaged until the engine coolant hits 208.

As you trouble shoot the issue keep the way the system operates in mind to help you understand what you see and why you see it.

[Archived]

Thanks Jon, I take all this info and put it away so it can be recalled when needed. I don’t want to get caught unprepared when cruising the roads. I have been very diligent with maintenance and pretrip inspections.

[glen]

I don’t think “Stop Engine”, would come on at 208 degrees, if I understand your description.

Your problem sounds similar to ones I have had. But they may be caused by a different problem. Mine was/is an electrical problem because my temperature spikes at 232 degrees in a few seconds. I was able to see this with a Silverleaf by recording information every second.

I still have the problem on occasion but it appears to be reduced by cleaning electrical contacts at the ECM and/or moving wiring to the ECM.

I described it on another board

http://www.dafenginetrader.com/Diesel_Talk/messagepost.cfm?postaction=reply&catid=9&threadid=5877&messid=20424&STARTPAGE=1&parentid=20424

Ed Roelle