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Inverter seems to be malfunctioning….
So as I continue to revive this older 89 Marathon conversion, I installed new AGM batteries…. All seemed good, and I had plenty of power to spare :-)…
So I gave her a test, and loaded the system with some typical consumption like TV, and a few lights, and ran her all night…. the batteries held up great…. So next morning I placed her back on shore power to charge the batteries and again, both inverters switched to AC input and after the typical 10 seconds or so the AMPS rose as they started to pull a good load to charge the batteries…. so I didn’t pay too much attention… after glancing up a couple minutes later I noticed one inverter was no longer on AC power… so I thought wierd and turned it off and let set a couple minutes and clicked it back on and it came back on on AC power and started again, and then the AC went on and off a few times on the LED like the automatic transfer function was wierding… now it won’t go online to AC power but generates AC off the batteries fine…
So off to the internet I go and find some manuals, and it appears there is a “fuse” that can control the AC input function… I have not checked it yet, but it worked, then didn’t, then did a couple times, and as an EE that tells me the likelyhood of a blown fuse is not in the cards. Upon more reading, I hear many owners of the Freedom 25, which I have 2, say they suffer from some board connection issues, and rapping on them with a rubber mallet will often cause them to start working. I will try this tomorrow before I tear into it, which I will probably do either way.. but my questions are these….
1. Are the boards a soldering loose issue, or just a socketed loose issue whereas seating and unseating a couple times will renew the connections for a reasonable period of time +years….
2. During research, I saw one posting that said the Fuse holder that controls the AC transfer switch can get hot and cause some intermittent issues, has anyone experienced this? and is it a simple remove fuse, clean terminals and install fresh fuse?
3. Finally, I saw my same inverter with a much fancier controller… mine just has some dumb LED’s and nothing more than an on/off function, but there seems to be another newer controller interface that might allow more control and monitoring… can anyone shed any light on compatibility? My Freedom 25’s are black, have 3 breakers down the left side and a simple on/off….
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5 Replies
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We may not be talking about the same inverters, but my Freedom inverters had a pair of P&B relays and if one malfuncted (a technical term) it could have produced some intermittent operation you describe. They appeared to be conventional relays available from places like WW Grainger.
Bad contacts, bad coil, or loose connections to the relay could all contribute to what you describe. Worth opening the inverters up, blow or clean the dust and crud out, verify the cooling fans are working and check the relay operation. It will cost you a little time, but may produce the answer. Just make sure you kill all electric power before you start working on them, including battery shut off.
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DO NOT buy the Link 1000/2000 remotes! Unlike the basic remote, these actually take over control of the charging circuits. These remotes monitor DC voltage and current draw and based on that data they tell the chargers what to do. Xantrex will trell you these remotes are fully compatible with their chargers. I don’t doubt what they are saying. The fact is that many have reported these remotes have been over charging the batteries. I can tell you for a fact it happened to me. I was on the road and had plans to be on the road for many months. So, I simply installed the basic remotes. When I have time I may troubleshoot the root cause. I suspect the current tap or the wiring between the current tap and the remote has a problem.
As for your problem, the first thing I would look at (if it’s not the fuse), would be heat related. There are thermal sensors on the AC charge and by-pass relays. Fans have failed. If heat related your remote should be reporting heat overload. I have a Freedom 25 and I believe there are 3 control boards. They are interconnected (as I recall) with terminal lugs. Xantrex does have service centers, but there aren’t many of them. I recently used the one in Portland, OR while I was on the road. They did a good job, albeit a bit pricey. BTW, I asked the service tech abouty the remote. He too said steer clear of the Link remotes.
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Interesting, I have had the Link 2000’s and they worked great, much easier to work with than the dip switch deal and I thought they were very accurate. You do have turn off the manual power switch at the inverters because as Gil pointed out, they are controlled by the remotes.
What do you think Ben?
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For inverters or their remotes to function properly good electrical connections are absolutely required and that includes battery cabling. The fans must work which is why I suggested above to verify they are working, and for sure clean out the dust and grit that collects over the years.
I have had zero problems associated with remotes as long as the wiring between them and the inverter is good and there is no bad connection. Ditto on what Tom said about the dip switch type remote. Not the easiest way to change settings.
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Jon,
I don’t believe any other manufacturer’s remote takes over charge intelligence like Xantrex. In fairness to Xantrex, their remote doesn’t take over either. Xantrex sold the Link 2000 as an Integrated Battery Monitor and Inverter/Charger Control product and not a remote.
If you suspect your Link 2000 is the problem simply disconnect the telephone cable from the inverter/charger. The link will display voltage and currect readings. The charger will use it’s internal intelligence to charge the batteries. You can determine what the charger is doing by noting the voltage on the Link 2000 with disconnected telephone cable. This is what I did to prove it was the Link 2000 and then replaced the 2 Link 2000s with 2 Basic Remotes.
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