[Rudy]

Mike, The picture did notshowup,but on themain forum page are the instructions foruploading photos.

Bottom line however is to pull up the inverter mfg.s manual and selet the installation method that best suits your needs. We can discuss this in general but the installation manual is the Bible you must follow.

[Archived]

Found a way to make it work, Check the link above for the picture!

Jon, I thought about the “adding another alternator option” but if I can work it out without adding all the extra parts I would be better satisfied. If not, I will add another alternator. I am sure with new technology of solar and wind power there are more options than ever. I hear all these problems with the systems the converters are using and seems to me they don’t even have it worked out. That or they are trying to build something that only they will be able to repair. Sounds like the automobile industry! Try working on your own automobile anymore! Not gonna happen! I would rather use the KISS approach! I understand your advice and appreciate it. Not arrogant, Just my opinion!! I still use old school methods that work and will change if I see something worthy that will work! That said, I’m only looking at making a inverter system to use on the road for lights, TV and Refrig. I don’t plan on dry camping yet. Just looking for some feedback from everyones experience. Sure wished I could afford a store bought coach but then again maybe not, But Thanks for your input!!!!! You are the MAN!!!!

[Archived]

I was able to see your diagram from the web link. I don’t think that’s probably what you want.

Every coach I’ve seen has both a chassis bank and a “house bank”. While how converters tap the banks may vary, generally everything to do with the chassis if all you had was a chair and steering wheel, i.e. exterior lights, pneumatic controls, engine electronics comes off the chassis. Everything to do with the house is tapped off the other “house” battery bank. That would be interior lights, plumbing pumps, inverter, etc. Refrigeration can be powered by propane, DC power or AC power. Depends on what you have. Air conditioning is almost always an AC load, can be powered off an inverter underway if you have a very large alternator or a genset.

I can draw something somewhat generic for you, but details require answers to these questions:

1) Your chassis, is it 24/12V like many Prevost? That means it has some 24V loads and some 12V loads. If so, you should find a Vanner (or similar) equalizer already there. Is there one already there for the chassis? Is there the standard large frame 50DN alternator running at 24V?

2) Can you provide a make model for the inverter?

3) What voltage will drive your interior lighting?

4) What is your refrigeration and planned galley equipment?

5) What is your air conditioning equipment?

6) Will you have a generator?

7) If the inverter doesn’t have a charger, what plans do you have for an AC to DC Charger?

8) What do you want to run while on the highway? Just refrigeration is easier than that and air conditioning.

How far along are you in the conversion?

[Corey]

There are some necessary complexities in a coach electrical system. For example, assuming you want to plug in at a campsite, something must be present to switch AC loads from the inverter to commercial power. None of these are incredibly hard to solve, and it can be done simpler than some conversions I’ve seen. But there are some basic requirements to help you keep everything safe. I’m not a coach guru like Jon, but I am an expert on marine electrical systems, and the issues are basically the same. Some of the big coach converters tried to make every detail “automatic”, that’s where you can save some of the complexity. This is more like how many boats are built.

[Jerry]

Bob, Thanks here are the answers to your questions. This was a seated coach I am building out.

1) Your chassis, is it 24/12V like many Prevost? Yes That means it has some 24V loads and some 12V loads. If so, you should find a Vanner (or similar) equalizer already there. Is there one already there for the chassis? Yes Is there the standard large frame 50DN alternator running at 24V? Yes

2) Can you provide a make model for the inverter? It is a inexpensive Chinese made inverter 5000 watts 10,000 watts peak Pure sine wave. Also have a 6000 watt 1200 watt peak modified wave.



3) What voltage will drive your interior lighting? 110volt



4) What is your refrigeration and planned galley equipment? 110 volt refrig. and microwave, toaster and coffee pot.



5) What is your air conditioning equipment? OTR coach heat and air for traveling. Goodman air handler with electric heat and trane 2 ton condensor when shore hooked up.



6) Will you have a generator? Eventually, possibly 2 years, looking at a water cooled 15 kw kubota on slide



7) If the inverter doesn’t have a charger, what plans do you have for an AC to DC Charger? I have a 110 volt charger but no way to use on the road.



8) What do you want to run while on the highway? Refrig., TV, up to 15-20 watt lights. Just refrigeration is easier than that and air conditioning.

How far along are you in the conversion? 75%, using it to stay in at out of town job. Plumbing is done. Electrical is done to breaker panel with shore power hookup. Got to install ceiling, build 2 cabinets and build 3 interior doors. Installed a 30 gal. 110 volt electric water heater to only work on shore power. I do not want any propane on board, Just my preference.

I will install a manual switch over (even if it means plugging and unplugging the power by hand) from shore to inverter/ generator for now. Eventually I will do some sort of automatic transfer switch. Just trying to get the basics for right now. Hooking up a battery to a inverter is no problem. Question I have is how many batteries I will need and how to recharge them back on the road. Maybe my 600 million dollar net worth brotherinlaw could cut me a check and I could go get me a store bought. Haha, probably not going to happen. Thanks Bob!

[Brady]

Thanks. Have the basics now. Give me a day or so to comment. Tomorrow is a busy day….

[Andy]

Mike,

Based on your 50DN at 24V, you are faced with a bit of a dilemma. The house bank and chassis bank could be both at 24V. However your inverter in hand requires 12V. I hope Jon chimes in, but the equalizer that’s standard to create a usable 12V is probably 100A or maybe less. That’s a little light given the chassis loads demanding service also at 12V.

On a boat, the “backup” charging source is a genset, which you don’t have. It usually has a small isolated starting battery. This can bring all things back to life. Without that, you need a jump start if it all runs down.

I am still thinking, but I think the most economical alternative is to replace your 12V inverter with a 24V one. Then create a separate isolated house bank for primarily your 120V loads via that inverter. This bank can be small, maybe 4 golf cart batteries at about $400. Maybe $800-1000 if AGM is required. Depends on housing and ventilation. Then a battery combiner can charge this bank off the 50DN alternator while on the road. And yet again from a 24VDC charger on land power.

Keeping the 12V inverter probably dictates having a 12V alternator, That costs first the alternator and regulator itself, and second the physical means to mount it. The mounting part, I’m not sure how hard that is.

Some first thoughts to think about.

[Charles]

Thanks Bob, this gives me a lot to think about. Yeah, I’m really not into adding another alternator, regulator and having to mount it on the engine. No more than what I’m trying to run on the road until I get a very good 15 kw diesel generator, I’m thinking ditch the inverters and go with a inexpensive 5000 or 7500 watt noisy diesel generator for now to at least have power on the road. I do not want gasoline because of the the high flamable possibility. I am sure I can pick one up on craigslist for $500 TO $600 dollars. Probably my best option for now! Thanks for enlighting me!

[Larry]

You can put a 12 volt alternator on easy and have a 24 volt on also with ease

[Jerry]

I finally got an internet connection working and I am reluctant to comment.

My advice Mike is to set up the coach like any of the professionals have done on production units. They are simple, robust and reliable. What pushed my away from wanting to get involved is the use of the word “cheap Chinese” inverters. At the very least you should have good documentation for installation and it should be followed. Lacking that I see issues in your furture.

If jy understanding is correct it is a 12Volt inverter which means the house has to have 12 volt battery pack(s) so a second 12 volt alternator is needed. That does not complicate anything other than adding another device to be driven by the engine.

Having a 12V house means the current draw for heavy loads like the AC is going to be twice the amperage of the 24V house systems so make sure wiring size and battery capacity is factored in.

[Peter]

Check out the following link

http://texasindustrialelectric.com/battery_isolators.asp

A battery isolator was used on our previous coaches to charge and isolate 2 battery banks w/1 alternator?

[Archived]

The Prevost electric system is 24V and if the coach has OTR the traditional alternator for older coaches for that application has been the 50DN. If the house is also 24V predominently with some 12V loads the coach usually has an isolator to keep the chassis and house batteries charged from the same alternator, but does not allow one to pull power from the other. In that case the house batteries are wired for a 24/12V system similar to the chassis, and an equalizer is used for the house also.

The inverter in such a case is going to be 24V.

If the house is 12V a separate alternator is used to keep the batteries charged when the bus motor is running, and there is no need for an isolator or equalizer, but the inverter will be 12 V.