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Interesting Alternator Story
Just wanted to share a recent occurrence; I thought it was interesting and possibly worth sharing. The rig is a 95 Marathon XL45 and new to me by about 2 months.
The 12v electrical current throughout the coach was fluctuating between 11.7v-14.2v in a rhythmic fashion. This was with engine idling, disconnected from shore power and generator off, inverters on. There was a visible pulsation in ceiling puck lights and dash lights. The pulses sped up with increased engine speed but never stopped completely.
I had been chasing a problem with the MAC II air system (Marathon version of OTR air) in which the electronic controls for the system would alternately work/not work/malfunction. I finally identified the problem (with help from Red Dot who makes the a/c components installed) as fluctuating voltage rendering the controls either erratic or non-functional. The controls are fussy about steady current.
In chasing down fluctuating current, I checked the 50DN 24v alternator at the alternator posts and received the same fluctuating readings. The dash charge always showed 28 volts, and everything did work including inverters so I didn’t think that it was a failing alternator though this was a distinct possibility for a rig of this age. I pulled the external voltage regulator and had it tested, and it came back 27.7v which I am told is within specs. The leads to and from the regulator also showed the same variability and pulsation. The house and chassis battery equalizers all tested ok with .2v-.3v maximum difference between the 24v and 12v. So…..puzzling.
I cleaned and tightened all of the grounds that I could find, and also connections to each battery with no success. The system was charging and the batteries are new and held charge just fine.
A check of resistance between the ground post on the alternator and the large chassis ground bolt about a foot away showed between 600-800ohms. AHA. Should be close to zero.
Jumpering the alternator ground to chassis ground solved the issue. So what was going on?
The alternator was grounded to it’s case, which was grounded via connection to the engine. The alternator is held in a sort of cradle by 4 bolts, and apparently corrosion/dirt/age was interfering with the ground connection. The moving alternator provided the ‘pulsations’ as the alternator shifted in the cradle. Situation fixed by installing a battery cable between the alternator ground and the chassis ground bolt nearby.
At any rate – I have a friend to thank for suggesting that I check resistance on the ground side only. I could easily see where I could have pulled the alternator and taken it in for testing (my next planned step), at which point the alternator would test fine. After re-installing the alternator (and cleaning everything, of course) the problem would have been resolved with me never figuring out what the actual problem was.
I just wanted to share what I thought was an interesting situation with a simple fix, with the actual cause not being completely intuitive. I knew to check grounds, and in my own way did so without expanding my thinking, causing me to overlook a problem which seems obvious in retrospect.
John
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