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fuel lines
I’m thinking about replacing my fuel lines. Last fall I was working on my generator and noticed the rubber fuel lines were hard and maybe a little brittle. I’m not overly concerned about the steel braid in the engine compartment but will address those also.The coach is 24yrs old. I think there is a life cycle to these lines. Has anyone taken this on to replace the fuel lines. I haven’t explored in great detail getting at the fuel tanks but it seems that it might be a big job getting at the lines. I would hate to get a break in the fuel lines or even draw air into the system. Are they rubber hoses from the tanks forward or steel braid from the tanks. I don’t know how to access the tanks. I know there a 5/8 hose between the tanks that would be a pain to replace.
Your comments appreciated
Thanks
Darrell
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6 Replies
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Darrel,
I believe on your coach the access to the fuel line fittings to the generator is through the panel at the back of the OTR condenser compartment. I have never replaced those lines so I have no clue how they were routed, except to say with the generator box next to the fuel tank it is likely they are a relatively short run, and might exit the box and go right to the tank fittings without much routing.
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will be your biggest challange–mostly in the rear end area where they get splashed– might just leave old clamps in this area and put new next to it with new anchors/clamps. The ones in the last bay are easy with phillips head screws anchoring them . removing the rubber bulk head bushings and ties will allow you to pull new hoses in with fittings in place (engine supply/return lines) Install the lines thru rubbers then push rubbers into bulk head holes etc…. The gen-set lines are simular attached to seperate fittings on top of tank in most cases…Make sure you get proper fuel line for your use as this engine sucks fuel from the tank..This info was for main engine and gen set. If I misread your post disreguard part. Age is hard on fuel lines and causes problems down the road..Can actuall suck air thru detoriating pin holes that never leak. Found out hard way on that one… Do you have access to center tunnel (bottom) in last bay? without major disassembly? Bob
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Thanks Bob, Jon.
A job I’ll tackle this spring. I guess the easiest side to access the fuel tanks will be from the a/c side (curb) and not the squirrel cages. Are they steel lines in the tank area or rubber also.
Haven’t seen the fuel lines yet in the plumbing / water bay. This might be the most difficult access. I think they may be located above in the ceiling of the bay. Hate to have to take out the hot water tank and plumbing to access the ceiling. While in there and have everything out, might as well do a little plumbing upgrades … eh!
Need to be prepared before starting this job.
Darrell
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Darrell,
If you have to get into the plumbing bay don’t be afraid of pulling the water tank. There are only a few fittings, and once they are removed and the tank fasteners removed the whole thing will slide out easily. With a little experience you can have your tank out in 20 minutes.
I used a floor jack to support it as I pulled the tank out on my first coach and on the second I used my creeper with some 4 X 4s stacked on it to support it as I pulled it out.
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inside curb side frame rails fastened to bottom of floor Main engine line that is ..genset is not usually as well fastened as prevost factory lines… you may well get away with tape old line to new and pulling thru blind area…. FWIW
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it may be easier removing the stainless fresh water tank. hey i’m just guessing at this time until i get a good look inside.
i don’t have a problem with the job…. straight forward……just have to get it right done correct no short cuts. i will feel better when the lines are changed out. its about having that confidence and clear mind on predictive maintenance before traveling down the road…..a broken leaking line or sucking air is not a easy fix on the road. i like to gamble but not that type
thanks for the input guys
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