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Don’t know how expensive, but the joints the boots protect from dirt have to be opened to get the boot sandwiched between the two joining parts.

This is not an isolated issue and it puzzles me. I have probably done a full lube on my three coaches about 60 times now over the last 22 years. I have yet to have my first grease boot fail or go missing. None were torn or damaged. Yet over and over I have seen posts such as yours. I can only conclude the boys at Jiffy Lube get paid per pound of grease they pump into the fittings.

Some of our fittings are extremely sensitive to the amount of grease and they need nothing more than what I call a “kiss”. That would be barely a shot. The rest need only enough grease to lube the joint in question and on fittings with dust boots that is the amount required to barely move the boot. Not make the boot swell up, not enough to make grease leak from anywhere, but just enough to make the barest of movement on the boot to indicate grease has passed the mating parts.

If I caught a grease monkey pumping grease in a fitting on my coach such that the boot swells up and then leaks a long string of grease to the floor I would have to give the guy thirty lashes.

[Don]

Some of those boots protect non-greasable bushings (as opposed to ball joints) from dirt. I question the necessity of replacing those.

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I have a 98 Royale on a 97 chassis with IFS. My boots were cracked and I replaced them. Based on my automotive experience, this is way too early in life for this failure. I think there is a problem with the greases or the boot chemistry, that has not been acknowledged by the Prevost suppliers or Prevost. I also changed some “A” arm bushings. I think the cost for boots, bushings, and shocks was about $1000 plus $500 for an experienced helper. After much investigation, I determined that the whole ball joint needed to be replaced to replace the grease boot – not just the rubber boot.

Identifying the PNs to order is as REAL CHALLENGE. Have Prevost parts send you pictures of the options.

I am unable to get on the board as much as I should. Call if I can help eight one zero,five on six, nine and 3 eights.

Ed Roelle

Grand Blanc, MI

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I was recently at Prevost Ft Worth and they service folks say they don’t replace just the boots. They inspected the front end and said everything was tight, so I might want to just lube the front end more often until the joints need replacement. I was pleased they didn’t try to oversell their replacement. I did have them do enough other work, so it wasn’t a free pass.

Later I spoke to the parts guy that said the boots can be ordered separately, but they aren’t stocked. I guess this means most don’t bother having blown boots replaced.

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Gil, All of the dust boots on our ’99 Royale were torn. The upper and lower A arm boots were also gone. Am reasonably sure it was over lubing that destroyed the steering boots. Replacing the steering boots was easy if you don’t mind getting greasy. I consequently now lube them myself or insist on standing next to the tech who runs the grease gun.

I also replaced all of the A arm end bushings and an upper and lower center bushing and boots. I did the job myself and it took about a week with lots of grunting and cussing. I own an arbor press and enough tools but wouldn’t do it again. Like Dallas, Prevost Mira Loma also doesn’t overhaul A arms. They inspect them for excessive movement and replace them when they are worn out. They told me that it’s cheaper by far for them to replace the entire A arm than it would be to rebuild them. Incidentally, while there are special tools listed in the overhaul manual, the job can be done without them.

Joel, The upper and lower center bearings have teflon/nylon liners and are lubed on assembly. A torn dust cover exposes these parts to dirt and grit. While they go together tightly they are not a sealed unit. The upper bushing does get greased, on my bus anyway.

I completely agree with Jon’s advice, as usual.