[George]

no trim removal. don’t waste time trying to save glass. not worth it. replace with 1/4 inch safety glass -single thickness. you won’t notice a difference in hvac. been there done this. Side note drivers side glass is differant measurements than pass side. the glass is held in with glass adheasive. Easy to remove with razor blade and slight pressure. need more info just ask? single pane safety glass was under $75.

[Mike, 92 Country Coach]

THIS AL FROM INSIDE

[Ronald]

most of it from inside=when cut most of way around the glass goes to outside of bus. Your basically cutting a neopreme seal that holds glass in place. after cut 3/4 way around it will start to hinge to outside. Ck out windshield adheasive that comes in caulk tube to better understand how it works. If you know anyone that has suction cups to handle glass maybe they can help.. or visit harbor freight .

[Art]

How do you remove the sliding window. I attempted to raise to tack out of track, but could not raise it. I am sure there is some block to raising it.

[steve]

left windows in place. just removed glass. I had made pattern first and had replacement glass pre-cut. I did tape new glass in place to let adheasive set(to keep it from falling out) been good for over 7 years now.

[DON]

You said glass hinges to outside

Is the glass actually fitting to a frame on the inside of the window frame?

[Andrew]

I’m wondering the same thing. Is there a flange that gets the window aligned evenly around the perimeter before you seal it in place?

[Dorel]

I started to tackle this project on the driver’s side sliding window.

The window is only held in place with sealant. Sika-flex 255 FC (Fast Cure) from what I found in another thread here. I had to cut around the perimeter from the outside, about 3/4″ deep with a standard utility knife. It’s difficult to get a full-depth cut in one shot, and it’s also difficult to re-trace your original cut on successive attempts. So I ended up basically cutting out the entire 1/8″ wide by 3/4″ deep border a little at a time. A few hours after finishing up, I had the brilliant idea to use an oscillating tool.

Then you have to go inside and take the utility knife, blade parallel to window, and separate the frame’s flange against the face of the window all the way around. I had to almost completely cut the window out before it would hinge out and come off. Breaking the glass isn’t the concern, it’s deforming the frame.

You could then disassemble and remove the 4 pieces of the sliding frame from the tracks, but there is no reason to because you can’t reinstall it in one piece.

I called a custom auto glass shop thinking this was going to be the easiest job they had all week and they told me they couldn’t do it. I just wanted a rectangular piece of automotive glass, single pane. “What’s it for?” I didn’t really want to answer but I did, and then the guy tells me he can’t help me and rattles off a place 100 miles away that might. I kept calling around locally and found one guy that can do a laminated piece but he wants me to bring what I have in to him. We’ll see…

Here is a nice sheet showing the process for replacing a windshield with Sika.

Black-Primerless Process Auto Glass Replacement.pdf (sika.com)

So I ordered the 255 FC and the Sika Aktivator 100, as well as a few silicone scraper tools. I watched a video from a marine supplier and it looks like it sets up pretty quickly. My plan is to clean it, dry fit the window with some blocks to center it up, apply masking tape to the glass and frame, apply the activator, let it flash, stick a suction cup handle to the glass, apply the sealant to the glass, set the window with the blocking, tool the inside, let that cure, and then fill the gap around the edge from the outside and tool that.

Anyone who has done this, do I need to do two stages? I don’t see how else to keep the window centered and square. Any other advice?

[Charles]

I used masking tape to hold it in place until adhesive set.

[Mike, 92 Country Coach]

Robert,

When you had your new glass made, did they put a black frit around the edge to block UV from attacking the sealant? If they can’t do that, I plan to paint it on with enamel paint.

[Bernard]

no just raw glass.

[TRUE]

Roger that.

My wife dropped off the original this morning and they are supposed to call me today once they take a look at it.

[TRUE]

[Rudy]

I installed the window last week on the warmest day we have had in a while. I purchased a 1/4″ piece of single-pane laminated glass and it cost $58. I did not use spacers either, as it would have resulted in either a very thick layer of Sika between the frame and glass (for discrete spacers) or the Sika having to bond another material to the frame. I considered for a bit cutting out a continuous steel border, but in the end I decided that this would be too difficult trying to center the border and the glass simultaneously while the adhesive cured.

I purchased Sika 255FC, Aktivator Pro, and some silicone spatulas for spreading caulk. I taped around the window frame with painters tape and wire brushed and cleaned the frame and new glass with generic glass cleaner. I taped up the glass to limit the adhesive to the border. Then I used the Aktivator to clean the frame, which removed more old adhesive. I did this until the paper towels were coming out pretty much clean. Then I Aktivatored the glass.

The Sika tube nozzle gets cut with a triangular notch to form the bead into a triangle as you apply it. I applied it with a manual caulk gun and it took about everything I had to cover the 5+ linear feet. I ended up having my wife guide the nozzle while I used two hands to squeeze on the gun.

Then she went inside and I placed the window with a suction cup handle tool. She was able to help tell me where I needed to push more around the edge to get a good seal. With the window in place, I went around the border to fill in the gaps between the edge of the glass and the frame and spread it with the spatula. You have to be quick because it is hard to apply and sets up quickly. I was able to get a nice smooth finish on the Sika, making sure to get it thin where it went onto the tape to make removing the tape easy.

I ran some tape from the body above the window down to the window to prevent sagging. It wasn’t really trying to, but I figured over time it might.

By the next day, it was cured enough, even in the 40-50 deg F shop, to remove the tape. I used a straight edge and a razor to cut along the tape line just to be sure I would get a clean line.

If I was going to do this again, I would have bought a powered caulk gun. I would also purchase all 4 glass pieces from houseofrust.net if he still offers them. I don’t see them on his website, but I have seen on this forum that they could be purchased there. If a powered caulk gun could handle application (I’ve never used one) and I would have used an oscillating tool to do most of the removal, this wouldn’t be difficult at all.