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Downstream flapper valve on Royale Flush
Is this something that needs replacing after 10 or so years? I think mine is clogged/broken. I am wondering if I should step up the pipe size (before & including the flapper valve, and all the way to the black tank) to have better chance at not clogging.
Also, FYI, don’t rely on a very thin pipe connecting the sanitary tee (after the royale flush) to the air admittance valve. It is weak, and when it breaks when flushing with a clogged pipe, you have a toilet geyser. And it will continue to geyser for 3-5 seconds as you panic looking for every damn towel you have. And whatever you had in that toilet will be everywhere…
FWIW, I did not know about the flapper valve until now. I got the previous clog cleared by removing the toilet completely and using one of those rubber bladder & hose things on the pipe right after the sanitary tee. At the time I did not see where what the rest of the plumbing involved, so I was not aware of the flapper valve. I did get it cleared, but the next #2 clogged it right back up. Sadly, I *do* have a reputation for clogging these things 🙂 but this is getting ridiculous…
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2 Replies
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Andrew:
Trying to picture the sanitary tee connecting to air admittance valve. Been running boats with Headhunter Royal Flush toilets on them since the mid 80’s when Headhunter first started and now have one in my Featherlite. Can’t remember seeing a sanitary tee.
Maybe you could attach a picture. The Headhunter Royal Flush toilets are pretty bulletproof, there are numerous promotional videos of people flushing nuts & bolts, quarters, ping pong balls and numerous other items down the toilet to demonstrate how difficult it is to clog it. Its designed with no real valving to speak of. There is a upside down P trap that maintains a water seal between the bowl and the tank. When the button is pushed the high pressure water jet at the bottom of the bowl pushes the debris up and over the upside down P trap,down the pipe to the tank. Once the timer on the water valve closes the bowl fills with fresh water sealing the gasses off from the tank. Pretty straightforward design with little to no obstructions to clog.
I have had a few clogs where a 4 inch log was dropped in the 2 inch pipe. Using a standard plunger dislodged the debris quite easily.
Call Headhunter Marine toilets in Ft Lauderdale FL, they are very helpful.P.S. Just had to change the flush timer on a 2002 vintage Royal Flush. The old style timer is no longer available, retro replacement kit is $440.
Chuck
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The sanitary tee is the fitting on that upside-down P-trap. The sanitary tee provides a mounting point for the air admittance valve. The problem with the original fitting was that it did use the type of fitting that you might find under a sink – a very very thin pipe with a “nut” to screw to the air admittance valve. With 60 psi (because of the clog) and 27 years of service, that thin part of the pipe blew apart.
I am sadly able to clog this pretty easily. My wife just bought me the “poop knife” 🙂 https://www.originalpoopknife.com/
This is not my first time with a Royal Flush toilet. I had one on my previous bus, and actually I could clog that one, perhaps not quite as easily as this one, but was still always a concern any time a #2 was involved.
I never really understood their demos, flushing pantyhose and quarters down the toilet. Nothing I flush down the toilet looks anything like that 🙂 In fact the biggest problem I have is that most “objects” are simply too long to even enter the hole and will not turn downward in to that hole. That transition from “bowl to hole” IMO is far too tight of a bend, hence my wife’s insistence to get me the poop knife 🙂
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