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  • Dinette to Bar update ideas and questions!

    Posted by Glenn on October 21, 2014 at 10:40 pm

    Hey All!

    I want to update my dinette table to a bar table that hugs the wall. I have sorted out that I think I can reuse my existing support Marathon installed with some slight mods, allowing a reversion back to the dinette if wanted and making the install easier.

    I have seen other members photos who have changed to bar tables and it looks great, will clean up the space a bit and modernize things slightly.

    I am curious about the best way to go about getting the actual bar top made, I have corian in a light color, new table does not have to be exact color, but close would be nice. Also would like a glass inlay with some rope light. Who does this kind of work, or can someone point me in the right direction. I can do the install just need to get it made.

    Any thoughts, photos or suggestions of other ideas or things to watch out for greatly appreciated!

    Dean replied 11 years, 11 months ago 6 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • Corey

    Member
    October 21, 2014 at 11:05 pm

    Basically want to do it like it in this thread, and maybe something like Toms glass top…find a local counter maker?

  • Archived

    Member
    October 23, 2014 at 8:17 pm

    G-man,

    That’s my coach in the thread you refered to. I was able to install the new top using the existing hardware. I added a support on the left end that went under the new top and sat on top of the chase underneath. You should be able to get the new top made by any solid surface counter top shop.

    You do have to be careful in the planning if you intend to install the new top using the existing holes and hardware. Due to the fact that I modified some of the original mounting brackets for use with the new top, I would not be able to go back to the original table but it’s such a nice upgrade I don’t think I’d ever want to.

  • tom

    Member
    October 28, 2014 at 3:25 pm

    Dean, sorry didnt reply earlier!

    Did you do the top install yourself? I think I can do the install pretty clean, but obviously will need to get counter made.

    Did you design the counter on your own? If so did you just make a template and then take it to the counter top maker?

    Thanks

  • Dean

    Member
    October 28, 2014 at 4:58 pm

    G-Man,

    I am a cabinet maker by trade. I’ve sold the business to my brothers so I have a great connection. They have both a custom cabinet shop and a solid surface top shop.

    Yes I made a template of the top, picked out the Corian I wanted to use, sent them the template and had them build the top. I did the install myself.

    Find a solid surface shop and have them template the new top for you. If they do the template then they are responsible for the new top fitting correctly. In my particular situation I was able to fasten the new top on the right end to the box built around the fridge. On the left end I made a Corian support that attached to the underside of the new top and then attached the bottom of that support to the chase that runs along the floor on the passenger side of the bus. You may not have a chase like that in your bus, but if not you should be able to come up with something even if you have to run a support to the floor. In the center, the old table had a corbal underneath with some alluminum mounting hardware attached to it. I simply remade a new corbal (less deep than the original because the new top dosen’t come out as far) modified the alluminum hardware to fit the new corbal and then reinstalled the new one back into the same holes as the old one.

    I talked to Liberty about how the old corbal was mounted to the wall. They had actually welded metal in the wall and tapped it so that the screws screwed right into it. Therefore I couldn’t just run wood screws into the wall and have them hold anything. I had to go right back into the exact same holes as before using the same screws. It’s not hard, just have to make sure you make the new parts just right.

    One suggestion, make your new top 20″ deep at the shallowest point. I went 17″ on mine and wish it were a few inches deeper. I may still have them make me another top and replace this one just to get the extra depth. Even at 20″ it would still stick out from the wall a foot and a half less than the table did.

  • John

    Member
    October 28, 2014 at 11:59 pm

    Dean, that is very helpful, thank you!!

    Have a place around the corner who does countertops so will check with them. I will post a couple of photos of the current mounting setup and would love any thoughts you have on using it with the new top!

    Thanks Glenn

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