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Differential Flush
My ABS light is coming on occasionally and will go off and return randomly. Checking the flashing code and it tells me its the drivers rear sensor. Spoke with Robert Hitt from Prevost, he said I have one of the few differentials that has the cogged wheel that the magnet senses inside the differential, and the fun part is they don’t make a replacement anymore. A retro fit to the outer disk brake caliper has to be manufactured and installed. Robert said many times it is just build up on the magnet that keep the sensor from reading and a flush might take care of it.
That’s where I get lost, never heard of flushing a differential before. Anybody know anything about flushing a differential?
Chuck
2000 Featherlite H3-45
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Leesburg, FL -
8 Replies
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Chuck think of it like flushing a toilet. Out with the old and in with the new.
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Huh?
The sensor is at the top if my memory is correct. The oil level is well below that mounting point, and just above the point where it will spill into the hub.
If the differential needs to be flushed to remove crud wouldn’t the solvent or flushing liquid need to be excessively over filled, something which requires a modification to the fill hole in the pumpkin using some plumbing fittings to raise the inlet well above the current opening?
You can’t drive the coach with flushing liquid in it so how do you get the necessary agitation to remove and carry crud away?
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Jon:
Wires plug in at about the 10 & 2 O’clock position (see attached pictures). I assume the sensor/magnet is n that general location.
As you noted; wouldn’t want to drive it with any cleaning solution in the differential. I am also concerned about damaging the seals even if not driven.
Flush/cleaning sounds like a good idea, just don’t know where to start, to many unknowns.
Chuck
P.S. Mike:
I am ignoring you intentionally. LOL
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One of the things i did with my bus when i brought it home is change my diff oil. I used an inspection camera to look around inside before i refilled it. i will post the pictures if i can find them.
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Chuck, are they above the level of the fill hole? If so I cannot understand how a flush without agitation or overfilling would clean the sensors.
Why not just remove the sensors and clean them?
2000 Featherlite H3-45
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Leesburg, FL -
Jon:
The sensor’s are about at or slightly above the fill hole and mounted internally, the differential would have to be disassembled. Don’t have the shop or tools to do that.
Chuck
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I found my pictures and they are not that clear but if you drain the fluid, put a cheap inspection camera up in there you can see what is going on. Amazon has them real cheap they are bluetooth to your phone. This is how i inspected inside the pumpkin, i am sure you will be able to see if it is the sensors.
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You may look into the device used to flush AC lines. It’s an aluminum canister pressurized by shop air with an extension and a nozzle. You could fill with mineral spirits, fashion an nozzle to aim upward towards the sensors and cogs. Better yet, if you could unscrew the sensors, then squirt directly at the cog with the nozzle. I would drain the old fluid first, save it, and put it back in after the cleaning. Run it for a 100 miles or so, then drain, and refill with new.
Why? Use the old fluid to remove any traces of the mineral spirits that are left behind. You really don’t want to dilute the lubricant over the long run.
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