[Archived]

Year of bus? Also go to prevostcar web site wiring diagrams. enter your unit # last letter of your serial # plus last 4 numbers. More info you give more we can help. look for dash light dimmer if coach is new to you. Bob

[Clifford]

Check out the prevoman.com web site, Mango Mike has a section on dash lights and how to replace them. I got my replacements from Elgin.

[Archived]

Well my coach is a 92xl built by monaco. I called them and all they had was a couple of small notes and that was it. The light that I want to replace fits behind an is glued to the plastic or fiberglass with the names of the switchs above the switch. Being that the panel is a dark color without a light behind, its hard to figure out what is on or off. I am starting to mark them with some tape at this time. Like I said any help with this would help.

[Archived]

Maybe if you posted a picture of what you’re look for, someone can help.

[Archived]

I do know that vintage coach, if it had the standard Prevost dash and gauges the bulbs are available form multiple sources such as WW Grainger or bulb suppliers found on the internet.

But if the bulb are used for converter added switches or gauges or annunciator lights the bulbs could not only differ from what Prevost used, but could also be 12 volt bulbs.

[Archived]

Fred, I have a 99 Marathon and had a similar issue, so it might not help with your Liberty. My issue turned out to be the rheostat to dim the dash lights, the one that Prevost found for me was a little different that the old one, but everything works great now. Hope this helps point you in a direction.

[Archived]

I thought of that too. I took a meter to that rheostat stitch and it checked out fine and when the lights do come on the rheostat works normally. I called Prevo and they want $109 for that switch (# 069136) and I’m not sure what it looks like or if that’s actually the cause of my problem. Is it possible that the rheostat switch could be working and still be causing the dash lights to be erratic?

[Archived]

Hot wire it around the rheostat for a while. See if the problem persists or if it goes away.

[Dick]

Those switches will tend to act up sometimes when they are left in one position for a long time. dirt, dust, oxidation of contacts? Before you buy a new one, if yours tends to be left alone most of the time, I would cycle the old switch through it’s entire travel several times.

[Archived]

yes, good idea, I’ll take some of the contact cleaner to it too maybe that will help. Over the years I’ve jumped the gun many times getting new parts before the old ones were really tested to be bad. I did the old gunner try the other day and tapped it a few times with a little hammer! Not sure if that did anything but I felt better! I’ll rig up a toggle switch and see how that goes too.

Thank you for the input boys.

Fred

[Archived]

It ended up being the rheostat switch after all. I just bypassed the switch altogether and now the lights turn on as normal when I flip the rocker switch on the dash but the big difference is I noticed that the lights are as bright or really brighter than they were with the rheostat working.

Thanks again for the input.

Fred

[Archived]

Do you see a need to replace the rheostat with one that works? Are the lights too bright for running at night?

[Archived]

Fred,

I think you’re becoming a bus mechanic instead of a musician.

[Ed]

I think bypassing the rheostat is no issue at all Dick as far as I can tell. The brightness is perfect to my eye not too bright and I always ran the switch at full anyway. Of course, when I go to sell my bus (never) I’ll have to get a new switch. And Tom that’s nice of you to say but I have learned more from you than anybody about mechanics. I’m sure I’m not the only one on this form that values your expertise and mentorship. I started to learn from you and Jon too back on that other form that I won’t mention the name of here!

Fred