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Bernie, you are exactly correct for coaches with a 24V house bank. The Prevost side will always have a battery equalizer to supply the chassis required 12V. The same is true for those with 24V house banks. Although most 12V house loads are available in 24V, 12V versions are more prevalent and less expensive. With the efficiency of modern inverters and their reliabilty there are few few loads on the house side that really shouldn’t be switched to 120V.
As Li-Ion batteries become more common place in coaches I would expect to see most of the house side 12VDC loads to be migrated to 24VDC or 120VAC. I believe that move will occur then as electrical engineers become more involved in the total electrical needs for coaches.
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Hish, at 13.5V (assuming no or minimal loads) I think you’re pretty close to where you want to be. My coach measures 13.8V which is probably the best setting for our dumb voltage regulator 50DN power sources. I think Gil is correct with his VR settings recommendations.
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Thanks all for your
responses, what I am reading is the battery voltage on the chassis, currently
the batteries are fully charged at 12.7 volt looking at the each battery. When
the engine starts the voltage goes up to 13.5 and maybe 13.6. According to Leon
at Marathon the is OK, since the batteries are full the alternator voltage
regular goes in float charge, when additional load is put on the system i.e.
head light and other the voltage regulator will increase the voltage to keep
the batteries up.Al Thank you for talking
to me this afternoon, looking forward to meet you one day at a rally.The engine chassis
alternator have self contained voltage regulator, there is no external voltage
regulator for the chassis.
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