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Chassis Battery Tender Install
Left stereo on and did not shut chassis 12 and 24 VDC switches off. Turn key on this weekend and nothing. Luckily bus has a great jumpstart
So after reading up on this site about chargers … it was off to Cabelas and purchased this House brand charger made by same folks who make Marinco and Guest. This is Cabelas Pro Series 20-AMP 2 bank Marine battery charger SKU 31669 34220. See website http://www.promariner.com for info. To bring the batteries back from the dead I disconnected all of them in place veryyyyyyyyy …… carefullyyyyyy. I have a half dozen Schumacher SP3 3 AMP charges for motorcycles lying around so each battery got its own smart charger for two days.
Load tested each battery this morning and whalaa. Used the wiring diagram from this site to wire charger as you will not find one in the box which matches Prevost 12/24.
Finished install this morning. I have not yet decided if I want to plug onboard tender into the bus engine heater outlet and control from dash or just plug into barn outlet. That’s another day. I am just glad I got batteries back again and didn’t blow myself or bus electronics up disconnecting batteries in place.
18 years ago you would not find chargers this smart. 10 years ago wasn’t any better. This unit really has some amazing technology behind it. Cost $189.00.
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12 Replies
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Your third and fourth picture, could you retake those in ENGLISH please !!!!!!!!!
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Good job Ed, you also might want to think about scraping that green air tank, they are famous for rust if not drained often. Many of us have changed over to aluminum.
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Tom is more open minded than me. I would scrap any pneumatic system tank that is not DOT approved or used on a commercial vehicle application.
BTW, aluminum will corrode as fast or faster than steel, but given its properties producers of aluminum tanks tend to make them of thicker material, but they will still corrode. The reason tanks rust is the pneumatic system is not kept dry so the best way to have a tank get as old as Tom is to keep moisture out of it.
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Thanks for heads up on tank. I have seen the reports on this site about Marathon tank. Luckily it is very accessible. It was an inspection item on purchase.
If you look closely at pictures I had Jim at CoachPro install a 8 foot hose and ball valve on outboard side of tank. Several purposes: a. check for moisture, b. aux air source for air tools, c. fill mini airbags up before start up so belts are tight before turning motor over. I have read about folks throwing loose belts.
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Ed posted;
c. fill mini airbags up before start up so belts are tight before turning motor over. I have read about folks throwing loose belts.
Here is your homework Ed…..Replace “check valve” most responsible for loose engine belts.
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Elminate the damn belt tightening air bags using a jack screw easily made of threaded rod and you will be through screwing with check valves, regulators, valves, air bags and multiple fittings.
My belts are now always tight and I have not chased any leaks since I put in jackscrews.
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Pictures please Jon?
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Totally disagree with eliminating a tested and very reliable system that has worked for years on our Prevost buses.
When an air leak appears it’s cause for maintenance.
A simple check valve replacement solves Ed’s belt tension needs. Cost about $15 bucks.
Why would you recommend a long ago deleted “stone age” way of keeping belts tight ?
Keep your wrenches handy when traveling, Jon.
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Last time I checked, belts still tight, no air leaks. Life is good not having to deal with stuff designed to allow a belt change on a commercial coach in minutes so it can get back on the road. They don’t care if the system leaks down, if they start with slack belts, or that it is expensive and time consuming to be replacing the little air bags.
I can change any of my belts in 15 minutes compared to 2 minutes so in about 5 or 10 years when the belts should be replaced I’ll schedule an hour. My time spent related to belts is going to be far less than the time I spent the last 28 years farting with air bags, fittings, check valves, pressure regulator and the damn valve. Sometimes the old fashioned way is the most reliable, most secure, and in the long run easiest to deal with because there is zero maintenance.
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Jon, love that screw jack idea !! Do you have any pics please ?
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It is difficult to see because the photo only shows the jack screw, but this was to tension the belt from the engine to the fan gear box.
Prevost does not support or agree such a change is acceptable.
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Got the idea. Awesome. Thanks Jon.
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