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The pins are not in a position to get a lot of heat. However if anyone contemplates lubing pins kee in mind it becomes a damned if your do and damned if you do not situation. Lubing helps the pins slide more easily, and lubing is going to tend to forestall corrosion that may lead to sitcking pins.
The bad news is any lube is going to attract and carry dirt and grit, All the dust an dirt on the highway will eventually build on the pins and as it accumulates moisture will be retained. So you end up with dirt and grit interferiing with a tight fit inhibiting sliding, but if the accumualtion builds sufficiently it can hold moisture and eventually accelerate corrosion.
If I ever decide lubing the pins makes sense I suspect a dry lubricant such as some silicone or teflon sprays might be the answer.
The response we have gotten to this issue from some very key individuals and companies in my opinion has been underwhelming. We need good qualified guidance and unless Peter has had a better response than I have gotten we may have to make a lot of noise to get help.
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For a lube on the pins Never Seize works well for this. Remember a dot will cover half of the bus. lol
The other thought that comes to mind is to check the rubber air line from the frame to the chamber. If the inside had started to seperate it may allow air to apply the brakes, but, trap a small amount of air pressure to keep slight pressure on the chamber, thus making it look like a sticking calpier. ]
This is a common issue with hydraulic brakes.
Hope this helps.
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This is the tool I made to torque the torque plate bolts on the drive axle , they are one time use bolts so when I got to ranch got new bolts and replaced them and to torque them the 3/4 inch torque wrench will not fit in wheel well so I made this from one we had at shop up north and it works great 6 point would be better it’s all I had
the torque plate holds the carrier that holds the caliper to the axle for those that want to know
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