[Archived]

Thanks for the post Steve. You are right, google yielded a lot of information.

[Fred F.]

Btom,

I’ll have the answer later today for the Marathon guys with Leon’s help and post it.

[Andy]

Here is what I found:

http://www.valterra.com/product-category/rv-products/aftermarket/sewer-sanitation/check-valvevacuum-breaker/

Vacuum Breaker/check valve for No Fuss Flush

SKU: A10-3050

Check Valve/Vacuum Breaker, 1/2″ MPT, Bulk

$62.50

Installer Instructions:

http://beamalarm.com/foretravel-links/PDF/no-fuss-flush.pdf

INSTALLER INSTRUCTiONS FOR FACTORY INSTALLATION
OF
NO FUSS FLUSH@WASTEHOLDING TANK FLUSHING SYSTEM PART #336
(TEl Listing NO. 16910) -J
I. Drill I” hole on side or end of wasteholding tank, no more than 2″ from the top near center.
2. Insert No-Fuss Flush@ in hole in “top” position as stamped on flusher and drill >1!” lead holes in tank.
3. Apply clear silicone sealer (do not substitute) completely covering inside of flange (about Yi6″thick).
Fasten with #8 – 112″stainless steel screws supplied. Let silicone cure, following manufacturers’
instructions on tube, before testing.
4. Install vacuum breaker-check valve a minimum of 6″ above the highest flood level rim of any fixture connected
to the wasteholding tank (see drawing). Both valves are directional. DO NOT connect any other backflow
preventers (other than enclosed) to this system. Do not use a water inlet with check valve.
5. Test Flusher system for leaks with a minimum pressure of 40 PSI.
6. AttachenclosedCautionstickeron or nearthe waterinletto this system.
NOTE: If it is necessary to add any parts to this system, the parts shall be the
equivalent of and installed in accordance with IAPMO TSC 27.
(See other side for illustration)
MANUFACTURED BY:
LakeviewRVSupply,Inc.
(512)261-8000
NO-FUSS-FLUSH@
#336
WASTEHOLDING TANK
FLUSHING SYSTEM
PACKAGE INCLUDES:
#3 & .#5,plus 3 stainless steel screws, caution sticker,
user and installer instructions.
“-
EXTERIOR RV WALL
“-
HOLDING TANK WALL

Also a close up of the nozzle to help you find those holes in the end.

Hope this helps!

Fred

[Kevin]

Always knew this was a CRAPPY bunch. Pun intended

[Davy]

My black tank sprayer was clogged…I had tried everything I could think of as I mentioned in the earlier post. This morning, I took the access panel off. That panel on my coach has the hot/cold spigot as well as the touch switch panel for the water bay.

(A suggestion here….be sure you have the black water dump power switch OFF! Last time I went in there I didn’t do that and when I accidentally touched the switch….the black valve opened before I could say ooopsey daisey! That left me with a mess…I had to take the blind cap off over a bucket so the contents of the pipe had a place to go…other than on my floor, I mean! Still a mess!)

I removed the panel and took the water line loose from the plastic elbow as it entered the sprayer at the tank. I then removed the elbow…that let me (with some difficulty) see down into the sprayer nozzle. I used a piece of coat hanger with a small bend on the end to gouge around in the nozzle removing whatever…finally I looked in there and could actually see the holes in the nozzle. By using even smaller guage wire I fed it through the holes I could see….probably a couple more I couldn’t see. Put it all back together and tried it….Eureka!!! Job done! I now have functioning black tank rinser…hallelujah

The easiest thing would have been to simply replace the nozzle, but it would have required much more panel/plumbing removal…took the easiest way i could figure.

[Archived]

I wonder if there would be a way to connect a hose to it and raise it above the level of the tank and pour in some CLR or something that will do the same. Disolve calcium or lime deposits.

My coach drawings show a No-Fuss Flush system on my coach but to date it works great.

I also wonder if some of this problem is due to maybe the tank getting full and splashing on the device and stoping it up.

I have had my coach about 8 years and luckily never had the black tank full. Those that have had problems have your tanks ever been full while traveling.

[Sid]

I attached a hose elbow to the inlet connection and filled the whole works with CLR…also tried Simple Green..nothing worked.. Even tried a bit of air pressure..nothing worked. But I whipped that sucker this morning. See above..ty

[AL]

I received this from Marathon..

Tom,

The black tank flush usually is seen plugged at the no fuss valve at the tank located in the D/S plumbing bay. You may have to pull some access panels in the bay to see the hoses coming from inside the coach to the bay to locate the valve. There is a check valve at the no fuss usually located behind some access panels in a cabinet. Don’t usually see anything plugged there, mostly in the bay.

Hope this helps…….

Thanks,

Kurt Nelson

Service Coordinator

[John]

OK heres the deal. I worked on the SOB all day and the flush system is back in service and all buttoned up. I pulled the panels on the left side and traced the line all the way to the right side of the tank. The nozzle is installed in the tank behind the front inverter. Pulled the inverter and then the line off the nozzle and found the nozzle all full of garbage and the holes stopped up. Cleaned it out and blew it out with air and ran a piece of 41 safety wire through all the holes. Blew it out some more and flushed out the line. Put it all back together and installed a washing machine hose conical screen in the inlet. Hooked up the hose and it works like new. A full day job but now I’ve got a clean black water tank. Should be good for at least another fifteen years. I hope I am.