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Baydoor gas shocks
1 of my 35 inch bay doors won’t stay up, it will fall down in cold weather and so so in warm weather. the shocks say Colmar C 335/95. some of my other larg bays have 3 gas shocks 2 on 1 side and 1 on the other. What is correct? and the best place to buy them?
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11 Replies
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I bought at Prevost Jacksonville. Gave them the VIN# and they provided me with the shocks. If you have something heavy on the doors (like a rack and folding chairs), I think you need “stronger” shocks.
Be very careful removing the existing ones. Make sure the door is solidly propped up all the way (with all the air out of the coach bags so the coach doesn’t try to support itself on the bay door if air leaks out). There is a tremendous amount of energy in those shock absorbers; if they aren’t fully extended when you unfasten them they will try to extend with extreme force. You will not be able to hold them back, make sure you’re NOT in the their way.
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One alternative source is Orr & Orr 708-496-9800 or google them. I paid $21.95 1.5 years ago for my application.
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We got a bunch from Prevost Jacksonville also, I forget the “pounds” strength but they know what the doors need. Marathon (and perhaps other converters) has folding chair storage on the inside of each door of the main bay, so we got some for that bay from Marathon with more “oomph” per their recommendation.
Linda
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The strut force also can be “adjusted” by selecting one of two mounting holes on some chassis models. Each hole provides a different level of mechanical advantage so if the strut doesn’t have the force required, the second hole might make it work.
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Prevost sells both regular strength and heavy duty. I have an H3’s model, but I believe this is true for xl II also. I have mixed and matched one regular and one heavy duty on a bay door depending on what’s mounted on door ( ex. lawn chairs).
Buy yourself an Irwin bar clamp long enough to compress the door piston just enough to install. Be careful.
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I tried the 2nd mounting holes before and they do work as Jon says… but, the door then swung closed a lot harder than before too. Eventually I put them back and got new air springs as I became worried the extra slam of the doors was probably not so good.
i don’t know if that was just our bus that would do that or if they all would. You may have to just try it and see if it works for you.
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Prevost will have the exact application and delivery next day… just ordered some and the service was great and the price was right. Grainger quoted me a 27 ” extended, 150# strut, etc., for $164 and Prevost had a 190# one for $29.61 delivered…..I was replacing the struts under the bed.
I had great success replacing the bay door struts… they know which one applies to which doors. They are stronger struts than you think… (I may be wrong buy I believe they are 225# per strut on the first bay passenger side). …
If you do not have an account open with them, let me recommend the process. You just place the order and you get an email invoice.
Pres
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Prevost gave me a part #980030 for $29.16 and he said extended length was 26.4 and retracted length was 6.1 and they were 195 lbs, that seems kind of high what do you guys think?
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That is the number… particularly if you have chairs in the door….
I put these under the bed as well…
These have the small heads and take about two minutes a side to replace.
Pres
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Looked up my notes from 4/16 for you.
I have the Prevost spec for part number 98-0024 as 200 pound, ball studs 10mm, extended 26.3”, compressed 16,1”, and stroke 10.2”. These were a bit weak and bit short on stroke to open the bay door completely and unassisted. And I have nothing stored on the inside of the doors.
The strut that actually performs the task is Orr & Orr part number H9506-220 or Stabilus part number 753033. Use only composite ends, not metal. These are 220 pound, ball studs 10mm, extended 26.97”, compressed 15.16”, stroke 11.81”. These work perfectly and open the door to the end of its travel.
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