[June]

I think any good one would work, Levitron for example.

Any brand name at a local box store would work just be sure and wire it correctly as it is protecting other plugs that are down stream that are being protected by this plug.

Anthing with a UL certification

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Just make sure of the amp rating. A lot of GFCI outlets are only rated at 15 amps.

I am surprised all other bay outlets work because when a GFCI fails it usually does not allow current to pass through it.

[AL]

I am suprised as well. Haven’t really traced it to see if it’s on a circuit all it’s own though.

I do know that the reset and test buttons do nothing and the outlet in the second bay works as does the water bay outlet that runs the bay heater/pump (although those are on their own breaker, so probably not part of the outside outlet breaker).

Will run to HD and see if I can find something of like quality and the same amp rating (15a, 125v, 60hz)

This is the outlet that I am having issues with. Much more “involved” then the ones Ive installed around sinks/etc. in the houses Ive owned.

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When you go to HD, make sure you get the best quality receptacle. I prefer the backwired outlets. DO NOT get the backstabbed outlets, they are JUNK.

Obviously don’t get a 20amp outlet, this is a 15 amp circuit.

The way its wired, there are downstream outlets or things on the circuit. You might have electric shades on this circuit.

While at HD get two more things if you don’t already have them:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Dual-Range-Non-Contact-Voltage-Tester-NCVT-2SEN/203499607

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Receptacle-Tester-RT500/204140729

If you’re not familliar with them … the first little device will tell you if a wire has power. Before you replace the outlet, you can check the incoming wire (LINE). If it has power, its likely the GFCI has a problem and I would replace it. If the incoming wire (LINE) does not have power, then you have another problem:

1. Tripped breaker, probably on the main electrical panel.

2. Or another GFCI has been installed between this outlet and the panel. I would be awfully surprised that Liberty did that. Do you know any anyone has modified the electrical system in the coach?

The second little device is very useful for all sorts of things. Primary use for us bus people is to quickly determine if an outlet has power to it and if it does, which breaker turns it off. At some point, I’m probably going to label all the outlets in our coach along with the lights in the cabinets which I think are wired to the outlets, but I don’t know for sure yet.

I would recommend testing the outlet and the circuit before going through the trouble of replacing the outlet and find out that isn’t the problem.

Don’t hesitate to check all the outlets in the coach to determine if the hot is on the hot, the neutral is on the neutral, and there is proper grounding. If someone has been futzing with the electrical over time, its easy to cross wire an outlet or for a ground to “pull off”.

Note on GFCI’s … they apparently can “wear out” and are prone to failing over time. But from what I’ve learned, the fail “safety” … i.e. they trip and won’t reset. I’ve replaced one or two in our 22 year old house.

Keep us posted.

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FYI, some GFI units do not like to run on inverters that are not pure sine wave. I don’t know what your inverters are of even if that outlet is powered from an inverter – just something to be aware of.

[Archived]

While getting a drill bit to do some work on my awning, I decided to stop in at the electrical section of the small hardware store I was at. Turned out they had exactly the GFCI outlet I needed. Installed and the new one is working like charm!

[Archived]

Excellent Charles!

Love the toolbox too …