[Eryk]

Unless someone who has experienced the recommendations to replace something at major cost posts here publicly I will not repeat all the instances I have been made aware of regarding over selling repairs.

But I can say for sure a lot of owners have been told they needed something replaced, when in fact they investigated further and found they did not need to spend a lot of money to replace something as suggested, but needed a minor repair, or worse, no repair at all.

I know for certain owners with the “leans” have paid for as many as three days of trouble shooting to isolate the problem, when in less than 2 days a full set of new air bags and Norgrens could have been installed virtually eliminating the problem.

Owners need to get second opinions if very expensive repairs are suggested, especially if the problem is not causing a safety hazard or affecting the coach to a significant degree. When we consider the robust nature of the chassis and components combined with the very modest number of miles we use our coaches it makes some of the recommendations for needed service I have heard seem just plain stupid, or worse, intended to take money from our pocket.

[Dick]

Hi, new to the forum, joined in hopes of being able to help you folks out anyway I can, I have been working on Prevost coaches for years and have numerous certifications from them. Feel free to contact me with any questions, I will do my best to help.

A couple of notes, as far as drum brakes, going in reverse prevents the pop, the pop is from the shoes being rusted up, and the brake chambers binding slightly, only takes a short amount of time. Also, make sure your slack adjusters and S-cams are being greased, it’s important to grease S-cams to where you can see the grease come out, don’t want to over grease or you will get grease on drums and shoes, doesn’t help stopping power.

Now on to knorr-bremse/bendix… As far as shops rebuilding calipers, you won’t find to many except Prevost centers and dealer repair shops, the bushing and pin tool kit is just under $4000 to purchase, calipers come in 3 versions, SB-7, SN-7, and a updated version of SN-7, difference is the slide pin boots/caps. The SB-7 you will find on most 2000-2010 H3 and X3/XL, these are notorious for ripping boots causing pins to corrode and not slide properly, the newer SN-7 calipers are much better, but still have issues. As far as rotors, they are pretty solid,I would not turn these rotors, just put new pads and let them cut in. when replacing, make sure that you order what you need, they come in vented and solid. They are not to bad to change, but will need lots of heat for drive axle as they are attached to hub with 10 Allen head bolts. Steer and tags are not bad, they need to be jacked off the face of the hub CAREFULLY!! Anaerobic sealant is required after cleaning the face up. Point is with brakes, don’t cheap out, it’s the most important part of your coach, use OEM parts, the cheaper stuff is junk, some are out of round right out of box, no good.

As far as original post with split rotor, YIKES! I’ve seen them split when replacing, but mostly just cracking on the faces justifying new rotors.

[Dale]

Great post…good detail about what produces differant part numbers.

I have this picture in my files of the boot caps which you spoke about.

Pictures are worth a thousand words.

Easy to replace when broken but let be “as-is” will cost you $100’s of dollars.

You can see the split rubber in center of picture. This crack showed up on an inspection during greasing the front end zerk fittings.

This crack allows dirt and water to enter the caliper slide pins, which must remain clean to function smoothly as Eryk wrote about in his message.

After….new boot installed

[Archived]

Exactly, that is a SB-7 caliper, you can tell by the accordion boot